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GiddaymateParticipant
Hi again myths1959,
It’s a good point that Doug mentioned that the “slab” could be a 6″ curb to keep the lockers dry.If thats the case the other thing you could do is draw a line on the tiles the measurements of your slab 18″ depth from wall 16′ along the wall.
Then use an angle grinder cut though the tiles to the concrete below using your marked lines as a guide. If is possile remove the tiles inside your square then score the concrete with your angle grinder. This will give you a good base for your slab.
If the tiles are firmly fixed to the concrete then scrore the tiles instead with your angle grider.
After that you will need to build a form for your concrete. Buy the same size timber that match your measurements and it should work out fine for you. I have done some diy form work myself and it’s very easy as long as the form work is very stable and dosn’t move when you pour the concrete.
regards Noelene
from Sydney DownunderGiddaymateParticipantHi again,
Sorry I should have mentioned you can use a Masonry bit to drill though your tiles but do it very slowly or use a tile bit to do it.If you scroll down this sites page you will see the 2 drills bits to use.
http://www.diydata.com/tool/drillbits/drillbits.htm#masonaryregards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi myths1959,
If the tile over concrete slab is level, why not bolt the locker directly onto tile/concrete using Concrete Wedge Anchors instead of pouring a concrete slab for your locker. The anchor’s come in different diameters, Lengths and Thread Lengths.All you need to do is drill through the tile into the concrete using a masonry drill bit, hammer the anchors into the holes then as you tighten up the bolts they expand and set firm.
Here is a site to take a look at
http://www.wedge-type-anchor.com/
regards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi,
Try using Bomix to stop the leaking in your pond. I did some research and you can buy it in Canada.http://www.bomix.ca/produits.php?id=71&cat=rep&lang=en&p=22
Here are some more products to look at
http://rockwateruw.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home
http://www.permacrete.ca/index2.htm
http://www.kryton.com/concrete_waterproofing.htmlhttp://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=503&nPrdImageID=&CatID=27
As far as the safety of your fish you will need to check see if the products contain Calcium Chloride because that will harm your fish. You may need to contact them for the details.
Here in Australia we have a product that sounds the same as a couple of the products listed above, it’s called Quickset Watercrete and it’s safe to use in fish ponds and drinking water.
http://www.highwayhardware.com.au/new_product/2002_04/quickset.htmI have used it to re-attach some underwater river rocks in my swimming. I would never have believed it could work if I hadn’t done the job myself. Its looks like normal mortar mix that you mix with water. I made a firm mix like putty placed a blob on the under side of the rock then submerged the rock in the water to the underwater rock ledge (about a foot deep). A small amount of grey clouding went into the water but the quickset watercrete patching cement held together and set the rocks firm onto the underwater ledge.
Hopefully the products available to you, do the some job.
Regards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi handypfb,
Hope this reply helps you out, For your safty I found a site that recommends you get the flooring tested for asbestos before you start pulling it up, because asbestos was othen used as a backing for vinyl flooring. Here the site I refer to. It then goes into detail on how to remove the tiles and glue.
http://real-estate-agents.com/tips/concrete/remove-vinyl.shtmlBelow are some other adhesive removeral products to look at.
http://www.kleanstrip.com/adhesiveremover.htm
http://www.kleanstrip.com/dealers.htmHope your project works out great for you.
Kind regards Noelene
from Sydney DownunderGiddaymateParticipantHi again handypfb,
I am grad you received my post, I wasn’t sure if you would get if you hadn’t ticked the reply email box.All you need to do now is ask your diy question back at the main page to start your new Thread and if someone knows the answer they will post you back the answer.
regards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi,
you need to start your own question if you need diy help. What is happening here is you are posting back to the first person who asked the question. eg. The (Thread) is the person who asks a diy question and the (Posts)are the people who reply with an answer.If you have a diy question click on the latest 50 Threads, you will see that just near the top of this page. That is the main page with the lastest 50 threads and there answers (Posts) all you do is scroll down to the bottom of the page and ask your question from there.
You can also tick the box at the bottom to have an email sent to you find out if others have responded to your thread.
hope this helps you out
regards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi trinquete,
Stair carpet rods should work for you. Make sure you get the carpet
runner to fit snug onto the stair and screw the brackets deep into the staircase riser and thread.http://www.rensup.com/Categories/Cat-707.htm
http://houseofantiquehardware.com/s.nl;jsessionid=ac112b2d1f43ffd12b99e3494dbb9adaf56f2adf2811.e3eTaxePaNqNe3qSb34Nc3mLb41ynknvrkLOlQzNp65In0?sc=13&category=138
http://www.stairrods.us/public_shop_imperial/otherproducts/pub_min.html
http://www.rensup.com/carpet_rods.htmlRegards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi brandiebar79,
Have a look to see if the o-ring or washer has split or perished this may need replacing.
If thats not it try plumbers tape around the the thread where the faucet joins the pipe.
1. First remove any remains of old plumbers tape.
2. Wrap the tape it around the thread several times in the direction of the thread.
3. Keep the tension firm on the tread.Below is a site that goes into more details that can help you. The site also mentions using Pipe Dope to get a tighter connection.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/plumbing/general/teflon.php
Hope this works out for you,
regards from Noelene a diy Mum from Sydney Downunder.GiddaymateParticipantHi,
It’s true there really is a rice paper wall paper. It is made from parts of the Rice Paper Plant. There is a picture of the plant in the site below.http://www.plantdel.com/Catalog/Current/Detail/04676.html
This site sells Rice Paper wall paper.
http://designyourwall.com/store/Rice-paper-wallpapers-c-87.htmlYou remove the rice paper the same way as you remove timber based wall paper.
The site below shows you another way rice paper is used.
http://www.shojistyles.com/screens/5-panel.htmlHope this helps you out
regards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi Cheryl,
This is just an idea, see if you can buy a second hand dashboad thats the same as your’s. Then get either a professional spray painter or yourself to spray paint the recyled dashboard. The site below shows you step by step instructions on how to do it, but they say to spray a dashboard it should be removed from the car.http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20030401dp.html
The advantge of spaying the recyled dashboard first is you get to see how it’s going to look before you start pulling your own dash out. If it looks great, swap them over and don’t forget to keep the origanal dashboard for re-sale value.
regards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi snoopy693,
Here are some sites that have easy to follow instuctions on how to built closets.Page 1
http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=18160&pageIndex=0
Page 2
http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=18160&pageIndex=1http://www.ronhazelton.com/howto/closet_building_project.htm
http://www.rona.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentServlet?assetId=386&langId=-1
http://www.hometips.com/articles/closets/built_in_closet.html
regards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantThanks RocketScientist I’m definitely going to stay away from car fillers and that was a very useful site you referred me to.
Hi Dough the product you found for me sounds perfect. West System’s have an International Dealer in Southport, Queensland called ATL Composites, I am going to e-mail them to find out where they supply there products in Sydney. Thankyou for finding it for me.
Take care and thanks again from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi,
This site also maybe helpful to you. It’s a UK site so they call crown molding (cornice) and spell molding with the letter U in it (moulding)same as we do here downunder. But to tell you the truth the way you guys spell it makes more sence.When you take a look you will notice with the first piece of interal crown molding gets cut straight then the molding that joins it is cut at 45 degree’s.
It is so much easier to do it this way for internal joins than cut the two pieces at 45 angle.
http://www.diydata.com/decorating/coving/cutting_cornice/cutting_coving.htm
regards from Noelene
GiddaymateParticipantHi,
You can build frame over cabinet and drywall over it to hide gap, place timber molding to hide the join between drywall and cabinet then where the drywall meets the ceiling continue on with cornice. It will give the look that the cabinets are built in.
The other thing you can do is build a soffit or bulkhead over the cabinets.
Below are some site to look at to help you with ideas.
http://www.kitchenplace.com/FEimages/breakimages/madisonfo3.jpg
http://www.oldegoodthings.com/images/cabinet_2.jpg
http://www.remodelingshowroom.com/raw/cogan_after.jpg
http://www.oldegoodthings.com/images/cabinet_2.jpghttp://www.remodelingshowroom.com/raw/cogan_after2.jpg
http://www.remodelingshowroom.com/kitchen/images/P8040002_JPG.jpg
http://www.remodelingshowroom.com/raw/cogan_after.jpg
regards Noelene
from Sydney down under -
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