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I have done precisely this same thing myself. What I did was to rip a scrap from a 2X4 to replace the end of the door. I had to shave a little of the cardboard eggcrate filler back with a chisel to slip the repair piece within the skin of the door. I glued and clamped it and it was as good as new.
This sounds like an early low-volume toilet which had lots of problems flushing. When was this toilet manufactured? (Look on inside of tank for manf. date.)
Pressure treated Southern yellow pine is termite resistant and quite paintable after it has dried throuoghly.
Painting ceriamic tile will give unsatisfactory results. Tile is not a suitable surface for standard paint and the paint will abrade off relatively rapidly.
Depends upon your specific brand and model of mower, but generally, you have to disconnect the mower deck and slide in out from under the chassis. It is best if you have a diagram of the belt path from the manufacturer. Have you tried the maker of the mower through their web site? Some are rather simple, requiring no tools such as a Craftsman which I happened to change last Saturday. My Murray mower, however, requires a couple of basic tools to accomplish a belt replacement of the mower deck.
If this were mine, I would try the same thing that I would use on my Corvette. I would try automotive rubbing compound in a small area and see if this cleans up the finish. If it does, then clean the whole shower/tub with the compound then apply a coat of high quality auto paste wax.
Yep, I would still add new to the old – better R-value. Any way you look at it, you need to keep the attic dry. I assume you re-routed the bathroom vent to the outside.
Unless you have a roof leak or other moisture problem, it is unlikely that you have any mold in attic insulation. The hot dry environment of the usual attic doesn’t promote mold growth. However, if you have a moisture problem, you need to have that rectified before considering adding insulation. Good luck.
Lonny, your response gave me a laugh. You started out saying that most tub spouts unscrewed counter-clockwise. I was thinking surely none have left-handed threads. Only when I got to the part about the ones secured with setscrews did I realize what you meant.
Simple solution – cut a very small X in the carpet just large enough to allow the masonry anchor which you will be using to pass through. Then slip over your masonry drill bit a thin brass tube which is just slightly over the size of the bit. The brass tube can be purchased at any supply which caters to woodturners (i,e, Woodcraft, etc.). Various diameter brass tubes are sold for use in turned wooden pens. The tube will allow the drill to do it’s job in the concrete floor while protecting the carpet from unraveling around the bit.
I think that the petrolium jelly suggestion is way off-base. I don’t see that it can have any effect. There are specific solvents sold by firms that manufacture CA glues, such as Hot Stuff Solvent, but I think that acetone will also work. That said, I imagine that any solvent which will be effective on CA (Super) glues will also be detrimental to the surface of a laminate floor. I might be tempted to try to very carefully peel it up with a sharp razor blade. Good luck.
