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No, it is not that you CAN’T move water temperatures up high on the control. However as you can see on page 16 of the manufacturer’s instructions:
http://www.hotwater.com/PDFManuals/184165000FVIRC3Manual.pdf
The manufacturer’s set the water temperature to the low point of 125F to comply with areas that require low water temperatures in order to limit liability.As on page 4 of the Watts seminar,
http://www.wattsreg.com/pdf/F-H20LS-Reprint.pdf
public building codes restrict temperatures to lower than 120F. Page 13 lists the states where 120F is the limit. A plumber takes a great risk in cranking the control up or leaving with it up unless there is another limiting device.I think their discussion of the purpose of turning the water up to 160F on page 4 of the pdf above is pertinent to this post.
I also think the individual points leading to the conclusion on page 8 is also informative – a good reason NEVER to recommend cranking the water temperature up, unless there is the assurance of a limiting tempering valve to make sure that the folly of turning it up is not harmful. I take exception to the advice to blindly crank the valve up from the factory setting.
A smaller point is that if you can get the water up to BOILING temperature by cranking the control all the way up is that the T&P would be dumping much water.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
You’ll find that new water heaters will have thermostats limited to 125F to comply with scald legislation. The days of the MacDonald customer pouring scalding water on the lap for 2 million are over. You won’t get near boiling water from water heaters any more.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
New water heaters have their thermostats set down to 120F. People like their showers to be about 105F, so it only takes a few minutes to bring water down from 120F to 105F. Dump 10 gallons of water into 40 gallons of 120F water and it is down to the lower temperature that a good shower could be. At 2.5 gallons of a restricted shower head, that is 4 minutes of shower. You have to know how much hot water you want in what time to properly size a water heater. It takes almost 1/2 an hour to reheat a tank of water.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
It depends on what this ‘safety factor’ is intended to do. As your heat loss for a new construction with those factors is within 60-75,000 btuh, the additional btuh the 90,000 btuh furnace has is for what purpose?
If it is in case the weather gets down to -30F for a month, then you might have something there. The furnace can run at its max for that month once per 100 years.
If the ‘safety factor’ is there to allow the duct installers to leave all the seams unsealed with no mastic and tape, so attic ductwork is going to be insulated cheaply as is done with 1-1/2-inches of insulation instead of a value more like your walls, then you might need to make up for poor installation by having the furnace much larger than necessary.
See:
http://www.hydronicnetwork.net/duct/ductloss.htmlAnother reason for a ‘safety factor’ would be if you just don’t trust doing a heat estimate that way. It is an old tradition to put in a larger heater than necesary, just in case. It is also a reason for thousands of short-cycling furnaces. If the heat estimate method is accurate, then there is no need for a ‘safety factor’ Heat estimates don’t include the heat from people, modern appliances, and are done as if it were the middle of the night with no sun – in other words a worst-case scenario of the average coldest weather there. Heat estimates are usually 20% over due to that unaccounted-for heat that must be accounted for when doing a cooling estimate. Putting on an extra blanket for the night is a viable money-saving option for the rare occasion. That’s why ASHRAE made the weather tables that way.
In any of these situations putting in a larger furnace than necessary greases the palm of supplier, installer and fuel company and keeps the economy going. The ultimate is to do a heat estimate, throw in a ‘safety factor’ and then put in a two-level burner model. That way the burner is always on low in the coldest weather which more closely matches the heat estimate, when that 100-year deep freeze comes about, nobody will notice inside, and the factory has compensated for guesstimates by making a furnace that compensates for a ‘safety factor.’ It is the best of all worlds.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
http://www.ignitersdirect.com/
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
You have a problem with the fan switch not turning the fan on at the right temperature. Have it serviced.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
With your well-sealed home, you would have to get rid of the moisture that a vent-free (U-Breathe-It-All) heater makes. A direct-vent would get rid of it for you.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
You need to find out why the water does not flow to the downstairs radiator. You’ll probably have to find out what kind of heating system you have and the parts that are in it to get it fixed.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
When you grew up before 1992, insulation standards for houses allowed much more heat loss and gain. The new standards went from 2-inches of fiber insulation in walls and 6 inches in the ceiling to 3 inches in the walls, 18 inches or more in the ceiling and 6 inches in the floor, so the heat loss and gain is about half what it was back then. Times change and it is necessary to change with the times.
Heat estimating by square foot of home was a cheap guess based on what most others around you had been. If you use a heat estimation method that accounts for attic heat over rooms on the shady side of the house and the new insulation standards, you will find that your cooling estimates will be closer to the heat esimates today.
Try to do it with a free HeatPro estimation program and you will see the difference:
http://www.heatpro.infohttp://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
Have a tech check the upstairs unit while it is cold, especially the drain line, to see if it becomes partly frozen so the combustion pressure is no longer the same.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
Disconnect the two wires that go to R and W on the thermostat. Touch them together and the heat should start. Take them apart from each other and the heater should stop after a minute or so. That is all a thermostat does. If the heater dosn’t stop, the problem is in the wiring, not the thermostat.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
Take the remainder of the chimney cap off. Take it along with the part that fell down to a plumbing/heating supplier or fireplace store and get the closest replacement that fits the inside diameter of the chimney.
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/suppliers_of/12171_Chimney_Caps_.shtml
http://www.thevictorianfireplace.com/chimneycaps.htm
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
First step is to let someone know whether you have steam or water heat to allow them to answer appropriately.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
Can’t tell from here because we can’t see how it is piped or what it is; but, a check valve or zone valve in the right place might do.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
Some sensors are adjustable, other repairs include relocating or changing to a more adjustable one.
http://www.heatpro.info heat/cool right-sizing
The Senate and House can not find a suitable health plan for the nation; they should open their own exclusive health plan booklet and start reading.
