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a local fireplace supply company to see if they can custom cut a piece of glass for you.
Once the company is gone you run out of options. You could also see about something like Craig’s List or some of the other local sites like that. Someone may have one in the garage or basement you could buy for cheap.
It’s possible, but not likely, that a local glass company could find the proper glass and cut it for you but I’m betting it wouldn’t be cheap, but it might be worth the cost of a phone call to find out.
or knife into the track or a screw dropping into them.
Find some big healthy people to tilt the table back and forth and see if something moves around inside. If there is, then it’s only a matter of getting the object to go somewhere where you can grab it and pull it out. If you get the table to work again then rubbing a candle on the rails and slides will help lubricate them.
It’s also possible the rails might have loose screws or have split somewhere, but that is less likely. There are a lot of things that can jam the table but usually careful poking and moving things around will reveal the problem so it can be fixed.
Good luck with the repairs.
mounting hardware holding it in too. Epoxy is great stuff, but mixed improperly or applied to an improperly cleaned surface can lead to a catastrophic and very messy disaster. And it could take years for it to fail. Probably just before Christmas dinner or something.
Metal strapping, even scrap wood screwed to trap the edges of the sink to the wood baseboard of the tile would be better than nothing. Again, just watch out for the length of the screws! You don’t want to crack the new tiles!!!
A mechanical mounting or some sort of support AND the epoxy would be better than just the epoxy. Even something as ugly as a 2 by 2 supporting the bottom of the sink/sinks and screwed to the sides of the cabinet would be better than just epoxy.
varying gap at the top with some trim board. It might have to be scribed to match the ceiling contours and then cut to match the scribed line with a coping saw or jig saw. Tack it to the front of the cabinets so it’s level, caulk any gaps with paintable caulk and paint it the ceiling color and it should blend in very nicely.
The width of the trim board will depend on how much variation you have in your ceiling and how much clearance you have between the cabinet doors and the ceiling. It could be 1/2 inch or 4 inches. The important thing is that the cabinet lower edge HAS to be level and even. It’s right at eye level and any variation are going to be VERY noticeable. Patches and variations up at the ceiling are a lot less noticeable.
If the gap is less than 1/2 inch then just filling it with foam backer rod and then smoothly caulking it with paintable caulk would work. After it dries paint it either the ceiling color or the cabinet color depending on what you think will look best.
There are too many variations to offer help on general statements so if you have some special situation post back with more information and maybe we can come up with other ways to hide the ripples in the ceilings.
the problem and doing it without throwing good money after bad. While the infrared scans would show where the water was coming in, the enclosure SHOULD have been assembled correctly in the first place, which would have eliminated any further problems. I’m sure Bobette would prefer not to spend any more money getting what she paid for in the first place. At this point it is the BUILDER’S responsibility to correct HIS mistakes. Can it be done? Probably not without legal pressure but you never know.
“The TRIAC”. One of how many thousands out there?
“A capacitor”. One of about 2.5 billion. Without the value and voltage there isn’t any way to narrow it down.
“Crystal Oscillator”. Again, hundreds of thousands of possibilities.
“Half a dozen resistors”. Narrow that down by wattage and you are down to only about 6 billion choices for each resistor.
Without a schematic and a parts list there isn’t anyway to know what parts ‘guest’ found that would work. Every component has a voltage, current, and frequency rating that we don’t know.
Toro doesn’t know because they don’t build the speed control, they buy it from some shop in China as an assembly.
Not to mention that taking the speed control apart and installing new components is NOT a job for the normal home handyman. It takes a technician to do it. Someone used to working with small electronics.
Perhaps someone knows the part number for the complete speed control because that’s the only chance you have to get it working again.
My pretty much top-of-the-line Fridgaire gas stove does the same thing when the main oven burner kicks back on. A sort of WHOOSH sound as the flame lights. The fact that it happens a few times in three hours hints that it’s only happening when the oven needs to come back up to full temperature again.
As long as the gas meter is set properly and you have the proper sized gas line hooked up to the stove it might be normal. You can have your utility company check the meter and regulator for proper settings and the gas line size is normally part of the instructions for installing your stove. Mine, because of the five main burners and two ovens, required a 1/2″ line. Using a smaller line can cause problems.
remodeling guy that owns a business that does this for a living. Who happened to be a long time friend. And he didn’t do it for free. The prefab enclosure was bought and paid for. He was hired to assemble and install it. A job he had done many times over the years. And when asked to fix a door by putting in the proper number of screws HE REFUSED to come back and do it. Basically he has told them “I got my money. I did what I could. If it’s not good enough and still leaking: TOO BAD!!!”
If it sounds like a rip off, and walks like a rip off, then it probably is a rip off.
Your point would be valid if they hired Bubba from down at the local bar but they hired a professional that does, or DID, this for a living before it apparently became too much trouble to do it correctly.
Permit not withstanding, I think Bobette has a very good and real case for legal action.
just slapping it together improperly. Not using the supplied screws is a good hint that he went his own way on the build. It sounded to me that it wasn’t that he has been back to fix things but he refused to admit that there was a problem in the first place, or do anything about it.
There might have been gaskets between panels or instructions to caulk between panels but it sounds like he pretty much ignored them. Caulking the inside gaps will do NO good at all, the water is already inside the panels and causing damage.
Unless there is some very novel way of installing the doors and windows I can’t see them just being set in place and being weather and water tight. Flashing, caulk, or gaskets of some sort would still be necessary.
Again, as a professional, as a business owner, and even as a ‘friend’ he had a responsibility to follow the instructions and build the enclosure properly. Since he didn’t he now has the responsibility to make it right.
From the sounds of it he doesn’t care about the problems, isn’t interested in fixing them, and could care less about them or the homeowner. He has his money and he ran. A classic case of using a good reputation to rip someone off because you are tired of the business. It happens a lot.
If I dropped 5 large on something I’d expect it to be done properly and the way the maker instructed.
As posted, it sounds like Mr. X pretty much just slapped the enclosure together the way he wanted to, and took the money and ran.
As such, it is still HIS responsibility to make the enclosure right for the customer that paid for the whole thing. At least that’s what I would expect and demand.
the use of an interior box for outside is HIGHLY illegal and dangerous! And useless, as you have found out.
Square D, C&H, Siemans, AB? They are all fine boxes if used in the proper way. Just pick one. They all work the same and are built to be used outside.
I’ll have to look but I’m sure I have your e-mail somewhere yet. I’ll try to find it. I wondered what happened to you.
Yes, a good Thanksgiving. Smaller than normal but good.
Look for my e-mail fairly soon.
Paint won’t stick to soap or TSP either. My bad. And tinting the primer is also a good point. It makes the finish coat look so much better.
I’ve owned this foreclosure house for a year. I’ve found:
An 8″ crack in the bathtub upstairs, which ruined the ceiling in the living room.
Stranded automotive wire used to splice a wire in the basement.
Melted outlets.
A leaking vanity sink because they didn’t put any putty in the drain/trap assembly.
100 year old Oak trim held in place with dry wall screws!
A wire connection in the basement for the men’s smoking parlor, my office now, that was just one wire taped to another wire. No twists, no wire nut, just two wires held together with electrical tape.
A large heavy ceiling fan held in by three roofing nails pounded into the lath but not a floor joist or any other solid wood. The fan dropped the moment I touched it! How it didn’t kill someone is beyond me.
It’s amazing what some people will do to a house they are living in! Doing a quick fix and hiding faults is very common when they go to sell a house.
That’s one reason a forum like this exists. And it’s one reason a lot of us have become pretty good handymen. It was required because of the shoddy work of others before us. Sometimes, like your problem, it’s more a matter of time and effort and not hard cash. Other times it requires lots of money, lots of effort, and lots of pain to fix things properly.
Good luck on your repairs. At least you will know it’s done properly this time.
