Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
It’s sort of like saying “The tire is fine, it only has a hole in one spot”. If your 2″ by 6″ joist is half rotted then it might as well be a 2″ by 3″ joist. The fact that it’s also under the bathroom room means it’s carrying more weight than some other joists and gets far more human traffic over it.
The joist is under a dynamic load. That means it has to move regularly. One of these days you will walk into the bathroom to take a shower and find yourself butt deep into the floor because the joist broke.
Being well supported on either end makes no difference. The length makes no difference. The rot would actually be less serious if it was over the wall instead of out a few feet into the basement. The joist HAS to be sistered but should be replaced, but replacement could be pretty ugly depending on what all is over it and what pipes or wires go through it.
not to put wallboard over the junction box. You can’t hide the box behind anything but blending it into the wall with plaster around the edges and paint is fine, or find a plastic plate to cover the box.
I’d worry about running nails into the wiring putting on the casings but just use short nails. A metal plate over the header would be safer, but it would make finishing the door pretty tricky.
All in all I’d say you are fine.
strength. To be done properly the joist should be replaced, but……
The best I can offer is to follow your second choice and cut out the bad wood, fill it with putty, and then sister the joist from several feet past the rot all the way to the support wall. It’s important to extend the sister joist all the way over the wall like the joist is so it can take over the weight of the bad joist. The rotten joist is basically useless with half the wood rotted away but the patch should help a little. The new sister joist will become the real weight carrier so make sure it’s as big or bigger than the original joist.
I would drill the joists and use bolts and nuts with big washers to sister them just to be safe. Nails can bend and pull out, but I suppose heavy nails would work.
You really only need a large pair of pliers, a normal flat blade and phillips screwdriver, and probably an Allen wrench. You will also need to know where to turn the water off to the faucet. I’m not sure where the model number is for the faucet assembly, but I’m sure someone here can tell you. It might be on the big chrome ring around the handle.
Then you go to the home improvement store and find the new cartridge or rebuild kit for your faucet and just follow the instructions. The Allen wrench is normally included in the kit, but an Allen set (non-metric) is cheap if you have to buy one.
Replacing the cartridge is actually pretty simple once you have the right parts. Just remember to turn off the water before you begin and keep a towel over the drain so little pieces don’t go down the drain.
Basically you open the faucet to remove the pressure in the hot and cold water lines, take off the handle, unscrew the top of the faucet assembly, remove a clip and pull the cartridge out. If you have the rebuild kit you will clean the valve, replace the O rings, and grease things up and put the cartridge back in properly. If you bought a whole cartridge you just lube it up and put it in properly, reassemble the faucet, turn the water on and hopefully have a working faucet. The instructions are very good and if you follow them carefully it should be an easy repair.
under the sink. It could be closed most of the way. My step daughter had the same problem and someone had closed the valve about 90% of the way turning the flow to a trickle. If you have the problem everywhere in the house check the valves on the water heater to make sure they are open all the way too. It might be as simple as that. Otherwise you have a clog of some sort in that water line. Check all the shut off valves first.
If you hear the rattle as you open or close a faucet or when you flush the toilet it’s because the pipes are banging against the floor or joists or something else. Copper doesn’t lime up the way galvanized does, and PVC is a far worse choice than copper. I agree with the other poster, your plumber is looking at the copper pipes and figuring you for a fool.
He replaces the pipes with PVC for about $50 in parts and pockets $3.50 or more a pound for your copper, and then he gets $4,200 on top of it! Nice scam!
Buy a few sticks of that gray slit foam pipe insulation and shove it onto the the pipes as far as you can reach in either direction. Try the faucet again. If you are lucky you can cure the noise for about $8. Worst case is having to nail a couple of plastic hangers to the joists to hold the copper in place. The pipes should be supported every 8-10 feet. And use copper or plastic hangers, no other metal or your pipes will corrode at the clamps.
Tell the plumber he’s a crook and find someone else for the remodeling.
Canada? Apparently Canadian and American power settings are somewhat different. In the US low AC power is anything below 100 VAC. 120 VAC is generally on the high side of Normal. In the US units are marked in anything from 110/115/120 VAC. All in the same range, but not the same.
hooking up and how. I made the assumption that he had a 220, or 240 in your area, electric dryer and hooked it up using a left over under rated cord from his old dryer, and that it was obviously hooked up wrong because of the excessive heat.
I haven’t seen a three prong split phase outlet in years.
As for 220 or 240, let me paraphrase Tom Hanks: “220, 240 whatever works.” The fact is that most power around here is closer to 220 than 240vac, and either one is correct.
A gas dryer hook up wasn’t even hinted at, so I’m not sure where anyone came up with that. Never seen a gas dryer with a four blade cord. Maybe I should get out more?
hookup. You CAN NOT hook it up to a 3 wire 110v outlet! Somehow you managed not to blow yourself, the dryer, or the breaker panel up. Consider yourself lucky! A 220vac dryer can not be rewired to 110vac! Unplug the dryer and be very careful not to touch the metal cabinet or you could electrocute yourself! If you intend to use the dryer then have a professional run a 30 amp 220vac circuit for it. Otherwise put the free dryer on the curb and call for a trash pickup.
then insulating the entire ceiling won’t do much good. The money would be better spent elsewhere. However, DO insulate the joist bays around the foundation and plug every crack or hole you can find. That would be much more cost effective.
on that. I was trying to keep the post below the level of a small book and skipped the ‘pre-mixed’ and dry-mix differences. I prefer dry-mix but then you get into the whole ‘how thick should it be’ issue. Thanks for clearing that up.
are bubbles of steam exploding out of the scale. You MIGHT be able to cure some of it by turning off the main water line, turning off the gas to the water heater, and flushing the tank through the drain line. It might help for a while but it won’t cure the problem. The only cure is to buy a new water heater. You must have pretty hard water there.
I spent 9 years as a repair tech, technical supervisor, and troubleshooter for a major “Big Box” store. I’ve also been into computers since their inception. I’m not an amateur. So here goes the explanation:
Your TV turns on for 10 seconds and then dumps. It’s doing that because during the post power up cycle it is checking for proper power supply voltages and communication with all the peripheral chips. What exactly is wrong? Ask the computer because there is no other way to find out. How do you talk to the computer? I don’t know. There is probably a service link inside the TV and IF you had the right cables, tools, and software you should be able to access the computer and read the error codes. Without those tools you are dead in the water.
Being a plasma TV my first guess would be the high voltage power supplies. It would match your problem of a flash for a second. They tend to fail more often than other things, but it could be something as simple as a bad solder joint on the audio amp or any of a million other things. A drop of water on the main board, a sliver of wire from stripping the audio cables touching a ground screw. A dead fly in the high voltage supply. As I said, it could be anything.
There is NO way to determine what is wrong without the proper tools and a computer these days. Long gone are the days of swapping out $3 tubes until the TV works again.
My guess is that the high voltage supply is out of specifications. Too high or too low? No way to know. What do you replace? Probably a major chip and several capacitors, diodes, and maybe some resistors. All surface mounted. And all smaller than a grain of rice, except for the IC. It is NOT a home repair!
I’m not trying to be a smart Alec. It’s just that you can’t fix that problem without experience and expensive, and probably impossible to get tools. You will not be able to buy those tools, cables, and software from Sanyo. They are only sold to authorized dealers and warranty repair centers.
Take it to a technician.
