Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
The windows were double pane High E glass from Park Avenue and I love the windows BUT on windy days, 40 mph plus, I still feel air leaking around the trim. The problem with replacing just the sashes without disturbing the trim inside and out is that you can’t get a windproof seal. I’m going to start pulling the Oak trim stops and using insulation and foam to seal the gaps that I know exist behind them. I don’t blame the installers or the windows. It’s just impossible to fill all the little gaps if you don’t have access to them and that requires taking off trim on one side or the other.
My windows were anything but standard sizes, tall and narrow Arts & Crafts style, but yours are probably a standard size. As suggested, it might be cheaper and better to replace the entire window and frame so you can seal it up properly. Once you figure out the easiest way to pull the trim without damage you might have to spend an extra hour or two on each window but it’s time well spent.
I noticed an immediate difference in street noise and better climate control so just new inserts sure help, but the breezes still come through a little. Spend the time to do it right. In the end you will be much happier.
Almost any maker has a line of do-it-yourself windows that can be installed as a unit. Anderson, Marvin, and Pella are just a few. Just shop around and pick the best you can afford. Caulk and seal all the gaps on all four sides and things should be fine.
Aluminum dents, and plastic can crack in cold weather. Both expand and contract with heat and cold so they have to be installed properly. Plastic can weather badly if it’s not a good virgin plastic or improperly made for any reason. That you won’t know for several years probably.
Generally aluminum should cost less to make and install, but that can vary widely.
Your best bet is to deal with a local company that has been doing gutters and downspouts for the last 30 years or so. They have a reputation to uphold and generally if they have been in business that long their guarantee means something. If a company gives you a lifetime warranty but goes out of business it is worthless.
In the northern areas of this country aluminum or even galvanized steel are common because of the freezing temperatures.
And very very boring until things are working 100%! I’m not sure how many moderators made the move but a few of the old gang are here at least.
The biggest problem appears to mostly be the anti-spam filters they are trying to implement. The first version basically blocked anything and everything, making the board unusable even by the mods! It’s being fine tuned and it’s better, but I’d hate to think what our normal posters would do with this place the way it was!
So thiggy, CSST is code approved in my city, but most of the plumbers I’ve talked to would rather go with iron pipe as usual. CSST connectors can be easily damaged during installation and the crimp gas-tight rings can fail if over tightened (a normal response for a home owner) and the CSST is far more delicate than iron pipe so banging it with something can cause it to fail. There can be a cost savings if longer runs are made but the connectors are pretty expensive and short runs are best done in iron. I have some lines I need to change and I’m using iron pipe for it. I’ll live with the extra work and less cost and longer life of iron.
Oh wow!!! Preview shows a normal response to a question!!! Thank you Greg!!!
‘banned words’ list Greg? Good to hear. However, it just shows that someone posting in Spanish or Latin or probably even German can still post a full page of junk.
Face it, you can’t win. The hackers will always find a way in. I’m not sure what the thrill is for them other than just being able to do it. All that time, all that effort, all that thinking just to mess up a site because ‘it’s fun’? It seems so pointless but it happens all the time.
Good luck on your quest Greg.
EVERYTHING! If someone wants to hack this place and post nonsense crud they can, but even the mods here can’t answer a question without being edited down to nothing.
It’s a loosing battle. If you try to make something ‘idiot proof’ you just make more creative idiots. 😉
and I can understand that but why do our posts get trimmed to the point where NOTHING is understandable? It’s a little hard to help anyone if we can’t post information. And NOWHERE have I typed ‘the forbidden name’.
prevents weird things being mentioned: like code or half a dozen other things and all it adds instead is “former host of This Old House”!!!!
Someone had better get this fixed, and pretty darn soon! We can’t help ANYONE if our posts keep being edited by some moron!!!
before they can find out if it’s possible to unlock the door yourself. Otherwise you will have to call a repair shop and have them come out and defeat the door interlock for you.
The first time I responded to a week old post the only thing the same was the subject line! Let’s see if this works!!
it has to be sealed first. Any good primer/sealer will work. Kilz is one brand. Use the oil based one because it works better. The latex one works but it might take three or four coats to cover properly. The choice is yours. All you have to do is cover the water stain and maybe a foot or so past it on all sides.
As for the roller? Use a heavy nap roller, 1/2 inch or longer. The roller full of paint is going to be heavy and messy but it’s the only way to cover popcorn without a sprayer. Just roll slowly or you will splatter the walls, the floor and yourself. A ceiling roller with a drip cover would work too, but just a roller and extension handle, used properly, will get the job done. Or hand brush in several different directions. VERY time consuming. Buy cheap plastic drop cloths for the floor to prevent messy accidents. The last two inches or so near the walls will have to be brush painted. There isn’t any way around it. A roller just can’t get into the corners or near the wall without making a mess.
If you use the oil based primer/sealer, paint the area and then just throw the roller out and wipe the handle down with mineral spirits. Rollers are cheap enough not to bother trying to clean them.
Then you can roll the ceiling in your choice of color with latex paint. If you have a dark ceiling the primer can be tinted to something close to the ceiling color. It makes covering it a lot easier.
can and will kill you. If you don’t know what you are doing it’s best to let the people that know work with it. Thank you again for listening.
Lift the chain off the bar and roll it over so the cutters face upwards. Be sure, absolutely sure, that you put the chain on right side up and facing in the right direction or it won’t work. Not only will it not work, it could kill you.
It would be highly weird to have the chain flip over without destroying the chain, the saw, or the operator. The bottom of the cutters also look a lot like teeth but they aren’t sharpened. They are just points that fit into the bar groove and grab the drive wheel. The actual cutting part is the L shaped teeth that have to be facing outwards and they have to be rotating in the proper direction or you have a dangerous and expensive grinder. Which direction? The blade moves AWAY from the operator at the top of the saw.
After you are sure the chain is in properly and fully seated in the bar’s groove you adjust the bar so there is only 1/8th inch slack from the bottom of the chain to the top of the bar when you lift up on it in the middle of the bar. You MUST NOT be able to see the bottom of the drive teeth! There is normally a screw adjuster at the back of the bar to set it. After setting the tension tighten the two bar mounting bolts SNUGLY!!
WARNING! Those are general rules for a chainsaw. They may not apply to yours and a misadjusted or improperly assembled chainsaw can KILL you! A sharpened pound of steel traveling at 100 mph will take off an arm, leg, or head!
If you are unsure, consult a local saw shop or someone that knows about saws and that can set your chainsaw properly. No one can see your saw on this forum so there is no way to know if it’s put together right or wrong.
