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Sticking it to concrete?
Your concrete was probably too smooth so the liquid nails had nothing to “tooth” or hold onto. Rough it up with some course sand paper, clean it well and the liquid nails should rip off the bottom of the wood before being removed from the cement.
the transformer and the toilet.
You are paying for labor and supplying the parts so all of the handyman’s profit is labor only. A reasonable handyman is between $25 and $50 an hour. A bonded and licensed one could be higher and a tradesman double.
So basically he/she is saying 2 hours for the ballast and 4 for the toilet.
Both sound like reasonable time frames. as they are not only replacing they are removing. Make sure you let them know that they have to get rid of the toilet and that ballast may have special disposal requirements.
http://discussions.tommmymac.us/BBS/Floor_and_Tile-1-C9.html
and post that picture.
you have to remember you also have a drain in the shower
except lots of hot air from both sides of the aisle.
http://www.pbpipe.com is the lawsuit site for quest. Unfortunately all they will do now is recommend plumbers as the deadline for filing a claim has passed.
good luck with the builder. Check your county records or municipality depending on area for the permits if you can’t find out who it is. the builder may or may not be the manufacturer of your modular home.
The dumbwaiter is at the bottom of page 9 and all of page 10 in this pdf.
http://www.msue.msu.edu/msue/imp/modp1/morefile/E0037.pdf
Ehow has written instructions but no diagram.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2100432_build-dumbwaiter.html
This one is more of a story
http://www.farmshow.com/issues/26/05/260503.aspand he/she will measure your current opening. Insure it is stable and supported. Make sure it is plum and level. then Install all of the frame to insure everything will match to your doors. since you purchased these without the jamb. this will be custom work. Expect to spend a full days labor plus materials. In addition you will need to install interior and exterior molding or finish the interior and exterior walls to account for the change in size.
Formica tends not to like things that are hot.
I am guessing someone put something triangular there.
Maybe a teapot or a candle or a hot coffee mug from the microwave.
It looks like you are going to be installing a cutting board for the landlord or losing your security deposit.
From this vinyl wall covering
Here is in interesting history of vinyl I found while researching this:
http://inventors.about.com/od/sstartinventors/a/Vinyl.htmIn any case I am guessing you will be able to steam off the old wall “paper”
Either after using a paper tiger (you will find them in every hardware store)Or by lifting a corner and steaming or wetting the glue underneath.
Its time consuming but will get you back to your plaster walls.Or You can just put a fresh thin layer gypsum board over it all. Screw it on tape it, mud it, prime it paint it and you will have encapsulated the the old paint and it will not be able to peel.
Or you can rip out the plaster board and start fresh.
you are too late.
You can still try:
Here is the website:
http://www.pbpipe.comon your furnace?
do you do alot of cooking?
do you take extra long hot showers?
do you have an unvented crawl space?
Bruno is right, to get condensation every night would take a lot of heavy breathing since you said the room is well ventilated.
recheck that insulation
But did not say what.
I am guessing he is thinking the dip tube in the water heater is breaking down.
Which can happen and is a relatively easy fix.
It is probably the calcium and lime if you also see the white substance anywhere the water tends to dry around the faucet.
but they could have had a duller finish to begin with and not shown the small scratches created by dog nails.
Or they may have been a little less smooth and the dog did not try to maintain its balance on a slippery floor.
That said polyurethane sealer can generally put over any wood flooring. And eventually every floor will need to be refreshed with a coat of sealer from simple use. Although you would probably void your warranty.
You may want to just try a buffer and see if you can buff out the scratches.
Be careful though as any sand on your floor that gets on the buffer will scratch a swirl pattern into your floor. and if you leave the buffer on in one spot too long you can actually burn the floor.Often they will do a free energy audit.
This may include a pressure test to see where you have air infiltration.
If the dust is coming from outside they will tell you where. Because it is also where you are loosing your conditioned air.
Homebild is a romantic.
I think Jordan Sparks sang that battlefield song for you.How about just some images of the worst scars.
Please do not open up your chest to show us that broken heart though. that would be too messy.
This is Stans story which will be added to an article later.
I don’t just want to hear about the scars. We want to teach people not to do those things:
Stan said, “I was cutting narrow strips of laminate for edging on cabinet doors. After a few strips were already cut the next one got stuck in the insert of the table saw. I pulled the strip back and tried to feed it again but it jammed in the same spot. Because the blade was set low I thought I had enough clearance to lift the back edge of the laminate to free it up. Wrong! Before I could think that I should not do this the blade zipped through my finger tip. I should have shut the saw off and tried a different piece or perhaps I could have used a zero clearance insert. What can’t be seen because of being stitched together was the perfect 1/8″ slot in my finger tip. It doesn’t hurt much and will heal. Never, never be too confident in your tools and how you use them.”
