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“i think it’s called door stop molding.pry that off also so the doors will swing both ways.”
Careful, some of the pre-humg doors have the door stop milled into the jamb. In these cases, it will be necessary to replace the jambs. new flat jambs can be purchased at most home centers. the type that are used to frame doorless passages.
JMHO
Carl
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20789&item=2376599447
I have bought from this man with no problems.
Carl
If you have many missing tile, you may want to consider removing all the tile and installing cement backer board in place of existing drywall. Leaving a 1-2 inch area of drywall that will be under the outer perimeter of tiles makes a neat joint easy where tile meets the surrounding painted walls. A 1 inch furring strip can be used to join the drywall and backer board for extra wall strength. JMHO
Carl
the marble can also be used to check floors. in a basement it is usually hard to use the marble as the floor often is very rough, so use a water hose and wet the floor, any place the water sits is where the low spots are. this is great if you are wanting a level floor when finishing the basement, just add a cement leveler to the low spots, wait 2-3 days and check again. Just more little tricks taught me by my grandpappy’s a half century or more ago. one was a master carpenter and the other a very good handyman
who built his own house and all the farm buildings himself.Carl
a foxtail brush works great for removing the dust from the walls and ceiling. also you could use a wet/dry vacumn with a wide furniture brush attachment, but be sure to use the hepa dust bag and a hepa filter on the vax to keep from picking up the dust and then blowing it out the exhaust. :oO with out the dust bag and filter, you just re-spread the dust all over the place. Just another way to do it, but is important to knock most of the dust off the wall to get good primer adheasion without creating bumps from the dust which tends to make little balls within the primer. JMHO
Carl
give emerson electric a call, they bought out King-Sealey whom made the jointer for sears and oft times have parts and manuals that sears no longer carries. phone 1 800 474-3443
sometimes faster than email :o) JMHO
Carl
you have several options on this ammendment to the contract.
1. ignore the part of the ammendment about the flue.
2. offer a cash adjustment at closing top help buyer with repairs.
3. repair the concrete cap and ignore the flue off center by .5 inch as it is cosmetic only unless there is a corresponding crack in the flue liner.
if they are serious buyers, they would probably be ok with the flue as is, but are just trying to get cheaper buy.
I have been through 10 real estate transactions in the last 6 years, and a serious buyer will be willing to accept the chimney unless as stated above, the flue liner is damaged. all points on an ammendment are negotiable, and if your sellers agent is telling you that you HAVE to repair, the agent is not doing their job for you.
JMHO
Carl
It is a possibility that the shower head is partially clogged with depostis from the water, or, if you have galvanized piping anywhere in your water supply ther is rust in the shower head. try removing the shower head, and cleaning the filter screen just inside the head.
JMHO
Carl
I am wondering if the new format is scaring people. I noticed almost all of the posts since changeover are by the regulars here. Hopefully the scammers and crank posts will be greatly reduced, or eliminated.
Carl
I had registered before as carl21l and when i logged in it uses that name as my username
I used carlos in the forem as a user name because there were several other Carl’s posting. I will have to either re-register as carlos, or now go by carl21l.
I just connected a so far the new forem looks great. My hat is off to the programers as I know there is a lot more work involved in modifying software than in creating new code.
Carl
