[itsreallyconcrete]

would be much easier imo unless you’ve also got rope, grapes, or cherubs involved

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which fuels the burner,,, fan limit switch controls the blower,,, sounds like a bad gas valve.

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[itsreallyconcrete]

& drain the line manually – should be 1 on the line in the shed if it were properly installed,,, there are heat tapes avail – mobile homes are the biggest users.

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she sez i’m not always clear,,, actually, we cut into the floor & set in pcs of 4″ thick green granite – nothing combustible w/i 3′ of the firebox,,, stoned up the f/p opening but left space for 6″ smoke pipe – sorry for the confusion.

following mfg recommendations is always a good idea ( unless you’re a guy – for some reason we don need no steenking directions 😉 )

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at our home in upstate ny, fireplace opening was too small for any air circulation ‘tween the firebox & firebrick,,, cured it – bought vt castings & set it on a 4″ thick granite hearth cut into the wood floor,,, at the lake, we had a buck insert but that fireplace was 4’ wide – easy fit there,,, no trouble at all w/either 1 far’s burn time.

good luck !

ps – the vt castings was MUCH more attractive than the buck

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[itsreallyconcrete]

take that back – we’ve only got 1 crack in the wall otherwise my neck’d be sore from all the swiveling 😉

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function & efficiency is FAR more important than aesthetics

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product & i wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them a bit,,, however, that exp was 30yrs ago so i’d have to ck them out again.

burn rate is controlled by combustion air entering the chamber – NOT by closing the stove damper,,, altho we heat w/gas now, i wouldn’t hesitate to insert any unit w/decent brand name & history,,, we have only glass doors on our f/p but fires aren’t often nec down in atl.

i’d think any decent stove’ll burn at least for 8hrs depending on fuel.

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even a bit larger,,, doesn’t leak water or anything else so i turn my head when walking by 😉 & repairing conc is our profession – go figger !

you can use hydraulic, patching cement, or drywall jnt mtl,,, they’ll all dry so then keep an eye on any NEW cracks in the patch mtl – that will be your indication of wall/crack movement.

btw, turning your head is MUCH less expensive 😉 good luck !

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have seen that effect but usually it was from a sloppy wanna-be gardener spilling fertilizer & other grow stuff.

pressure wash the stains out as best you can ( dawn dishwashing detergent may help ) & let the sun at it would be my advice.

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what is the issue w/the crack – does it leak water when it rains ? is soil falling thru it ? neither of those being the case, why fix it ?

you can diy by excavating the exterior to the brm of the crk & sealing it w/fiber-reinforced roofing cement – just place 2 layers of 6mil plastic over the cement prior to backfilling in 5″ lifts,,, compact the dirt by foot pressure.

dunno ‘crack-x’ or whether they’d epoxy weld or seal crack

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[itsreallyconcrete]

just because there may be a huge jump from the mgf’s statement & code, i’ll ck code w/plumber

appreciate your help !

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[itsreallyconcrete]

they won’t meet code for behind a cabinet or up in a soffit ? only solder jnts there ? what about hidden transitions from copper to pex OR jnts in copper supply lines ?

working down at the shore on a new kitchen & getting ready to mud the drywall,,, THANKS ! ! !

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if the mortar’s dry & has reached nominal strength, 1 could begin after 2 days,,, its kind of like knowing when to cut contraction joints in concrete slabs – no one actually knows but its done when the conc is ready,,, specifiers, architects, & engineers have the same answer as the mason who does the work.

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[itsreallyconcrete]

slightly thicker than water – read the directions 1st & understand them.

cracks in the stone may/may not be a problem,,, can’t see them from my house so no way to judge.

mortar voids should be repointed, of course.

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