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Only way to know for sure is to read the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Most direct bent appliances can be installed directly thru vinyl siding so I doubt the proximity to the siding will be a problem.
Change the flapper, adjust the flapper-to-handle-chain, replace the drain assembly, install an anti-siphon fill valve, remove the fill tube from below water level in the drain tube or all of the above.
Sloping the floor by an inch or two is a common building practice to slope rainwater away from the main structure.
T&G pine is NEVER used for a porch in an exposed location and while T&G is just fine, the deck lumber needs to be of a naturally water and inspect repellant type lumber such as Douglas Fir, Cypress, Oak, Redwood, Cedar, Mahogany or some other type tropical wood.
Whether or not you should be concerned about boring insects depends upon the height of the porch above the grade.
You sure it isn’t a speck of dirt?
6 1/2″ has no significance on a standard English Tape Rule…or do you have a metric or other type rule?
Your best and perhaps only solution here is to add gable vents, even powered gable vents if necessary.
Basement water problems usually require a variety of approaches to solve.
Here is a helpful link that describes different types of basement water and moisture problems and how to rectify them:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/housingandclothing/DK7051.html
What you propose is a common practice, done all the time and is usually accomplished by using drywall sheets either 3/8ths or 1/4″ thick.
Normally, you can only find 3/8th or 1/4″ sheets from professional drywall supply dealers, not home improvement centers.
Some water heaters claim a “lifetime” warranty but if you check closely, the warranty is only limited to the tank and still has exceptions.
And while buying a ‘lifetime’ tank warranty heater may look appetizing at first, the fact that replacing all the other parts can cost more than buying and replacing several entire cheaper water heaters thru the years makes your choice all the more unclear.
How you deal with the situation really depend supon your ultimate needs:
Will you still reside in your house in 5 years or less? Then it may be best to replace the heater…
Will you be in this house over the next 20-30? Then repairing the heater as things arise ‘might’ be the answer….But considering even this…the water heater’s replacement parts may not even be available in 10 years…
My choice: By a 5-10 year water heater and replace as needed.
jmho and all other thoughts welcomed.
It is a building code violation to vent a fan into an attic.
Exhaust fans must be run to the outside preferrably thru an outside gable end.
Venting vertically is not a good alternative since all condensed moisture will run back down into the fan itself.
You will need to use 10 foot long studs or whatever length is necessary to fasten the top plates or your partitions to the floor joists above….
Ventilation is the unlikely culprit here and increasing ventilation can actually increase humidity in the home.
Condensation occurs when warmer moister interior air contacts a colder surface (the glass of your windows).
If condensation is occuring this soon and barely into the heating season where minimum temperatures have still only been in the high 40s…
The problem appears to be excess moisture in your house.
You need to find the source and eliminate it.
Excess moisture can come from unvented gas heaters and fireplaces…
Improperly vented bathroom fans and dryer vents….
Excess cooking…
Dirt floors in basements and crawlspaces…
Moisture ridden and damp basements.
The bottom line is to eliminate the source of the moisture and you will eliminate water condensing on windows.
Especially if you live, humid climate, you do not want to ventilate because the warm moist outside air entering the colder crawlspace/basement will only cause more condensation as the vapor contacts colder basement surfaces.
A series of solutions are needed which can range from painting the wall with a Dry-Lok type paint which can keep out water and vapor from the soil thru the block…adding a mildewcide to the paint…and placing layers of 6 mil plastic over any dirt floors.
The chip and crack can lead to a leak but caulk will not repair it.
Best solution is to contact the tub manufacturer to determine if there is a warranty, but even if not, to hire their factory trained reps to professional repair the damage.
There is no reason not to buy this house as the builder is taking a proper course of action to correct the situation.
Horizontal cracks can mean that the foundation was improperly backfilled, backfilled too soon, a wrong type of fill used, or that you have a hydrostatic water pressure problem in your soil which may have damaged the wall.
With proper reinforcement and anchoring a new wall can work just fine with minimum disruption to the house during the replacement process.
Consult your attorney to see if you can get out of the contract but my personal opinion is that it is highly doubtful at this point.
Since your builder is doing the right thing by recognizing the problem and willing to correct it, seems like the best approach is to keep this builder and his home.
Luck.
