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Upon re-reading, I’m a bit confused just what it might look like. If the back is just stuck on the top of a metal shaft, often there’s a little release lever/button near the base so it can be adjusted up and down. If nothing is obvious and you’re going to reupholster anyway, start your stripping process (remove the upholstery) and see what you find inside.
There are lots of types of hardware. Try looking here http://www.swivel-chair-parts.com/Tips/tipsPage.html to see if there is one like yours. The site has a number of remove & replace tips.
If you can’t find the answer, e-mail Don at this site and he’s probably able to tell you. Include a photo if you can.
“Steam cleaners” are generally “hot water cleaners” and do not actually produce “steam.”
How hot the steam / water can be before it damages the carpet depends upon the fiber content.
There are a good deal of opinions in the carpet cleaning industry about how hot the cleaning solution should be.
If you are interested in finding out about carpet cleaning, there is a wealth of information at:
http://www.baneclene.com/Just nit-picking:
While it is true that water transforms from liquid to vapor (steam) at 212F, steam can be at any temperature above 212F, especially under pressure. This is how pressure cookers work. It’s sort of like saying water freezes at 32F, so ice is 32F.Jasper gives excellent advice.
One thing I can add is that sometimes the outlets have “push in” connectors. These are not as good as the screw down type and can come loose.
I should add that the finish may have have gone bad because of exposure to body oils and food. You will still need to remove it, but the presence of Pledge will exacerbate any repair.
Here is an article that may be of some help:
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/savingfinish.htmSilicone oil (the ingredient in Pledge) is inert and is very difficult to remove.
One thing you can try is a stain removal cloth that will remove some of the silicone. https://shop.guardsman.com/store/detail/product_detail_theme_6/?product_id=6042
There is a chance that the finish is irreversibly softened. In that case, there’s no saving it; it must be stripped off. If it’s really bad, cleaning will remove (what used to be finish). Unfortunately the news is worse — the residual silicone oil from Pledge will cause nearly every finish to fish-eye. With 40 years of build-up, I can almost guarantee it will.
What I use is a couple of light coats of dewaxed shellac to seal in the damage prior to applying any other finish.
http://www.zinsser.com/pdf/TDB/be_sprshell.pdfNeedless to say, I do not recommend using Pledge.
Like this http://www.rd.com/content/carpenters-level/? or did you mean something else?
…technically known as glazing, color between coats of finish. This might work, depending on how far you have to shift the color. The good thing about glazing is that you can manipulate it and work it as you go along. Try it in a small area. If you don’t like it, you can wipe it off and you haven’t lost anything. The bad thing is, with a heavy hand, you tend to obscure the wood.
Gel stains are sometimes used as glaze, but you can also buy glaze or make your own. It must be top coated with a clear coat because by itself, it lacks the binder to keep the pigment in place.
In addition to sanding to give somewhere for the pigment to settle into, I’d suggest a thorough cleaning to get rid of any furniture polishes, waxes, dirt, etc.
Here’s a couple of reference sites on glazing:
Bob Flexner on glazinghttp://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish6.html
Jeff Jewitt on glazing
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/materials/materialsarticle.aspx?id=28865
I got mine at the corner Do-it-best hardware store. The brand was http://www.onetimewood.com/catalog/DeckPrep.aspx (poke around and you’ll find a store locator).
Lye is “Sodium Hydroxide” which should be listed on the label. It is very caustic, so wear skin and especially eye protection.
If you are sure you want to remove it and it is high-pressure decorative laminate (e.g., Formica, Wilsonart), you can generally get the contact adhesive to plasticize with a heat gun, and then work a putty knife underneath to remove.
Some surface treatments are applied differently, and may not respond to this, so try in an inconspicuous spot so you have a way out.
You didn’t ask, but if you can find someone who does not “Dip-strip” I think you will happier in the long run. A flow-over system is more gentle on the joinery and the wood.
Yes, it’s possible. You’ll first need to strip the furniture, then sand, stain and finish.
Pine is notorious for not taking a stain evenly (“blotching”) though, so as a DIY it can be fairly daunting. The last piece of dark pine furniture I did, I had four coats of spray stain to build color and seal the pores, a coat of wiping stain, and then a glaze. It was a lot of work to get it looking good.
Before you start, or commit to this project, experiment with some stains and finish on some scrap pine.
Gel stains may be a solution, but again, get some and try before you start your project.
Not all of these are suitable for fiberglass, but here is some information
I forgot to mention. Sometimes where there is no good pattern or prior needle holes to follow, I’ll pencil in a dressmaker’s pencil to be the seam line. that keeps me going straight. Something like leather or microfiber is a snap because all you have to do is follow the old holes.
Also as you are crossing over, take the tail of the thread and pull it over at 90 degrees to the seam. That will tell you where to put your needle in. This will avoid the puckers like you see in the web site I posted. (not my web site, by the way)
