Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
This will help, but may not remove every nasty bit of silicone oil.
https://shop.guardsman.com/store/detail/product_detail_theme_6/?product_id=6042You _might_ have some success with this.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/fabri_vinyl_fiberglass_repair/Permatex_Fabric_Repair_Kit.htmYou’ll have to do some color matching with the various color fibers. There is a guide inside, or have an artist friend over.
Just don’t expect it to look like the example on the front of the package. It works best of microfiber or plush fabrics.
Wal*mart carries this in their auto section (usually).
Another way, if you have some punch cutters, is to punch over the damaged area then punch out a matching area from underneath the seat. Keeping the same orientation of fibers, glue in the patch, then use the above fiber kit to blend in around the perimeter.
Hope that helps.
I have a consumer-grade carpet cleaner (Bissell) It has an on-board heater, but I do not believe that it actually produces “steam” I suspect the original poster has one of these or a near equivalent by Hoover, etc.
I also have two commercial-grade upholstery cleaner-extractors. They spray hot water. I normally put in hot tap water. On one occasion, I was working a restaurant and filled it from the dish rinse station. It was very hot water. It was so hot the pump shut down.
Truck-mount systems often raise the temperature higher, 180-240 degrees and have pressures up to 1200 PSI. These are obviously not made for Joe Consumer.
There is a lot of disagreement in the carpet cleaning industry about how hot is hot enough. Some people say the hotter the better. Others say you are inviting heat damage. The four parameters of carpet cleaning are TACT:
T – temperature
A – agitation
C – chemicals
T – time (dwell time)The usual rule is if you decrease one, you have to increase one or more of the others to get equivalent cleaning action.
http://www.cleanfax.com/howto.asp?H_ID=1793So, to answer the original question, put in hot water and don’t get too hung up.
It depends on what’s on there now. Some newer cabinets (12-15 years old or newer) have conversion finishes that don’t accept any top coat.
Many older cabinets have lacquer or pre-cat lacquer. This will accept a lacquer finish fine.
You should definitely CLEAN the cabinets first. Not much will stick to greasy cabinets.
Here is a video on the subject
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJXDbEVtNPYI prefer an oil-based paint for brushing or pre-cat lacquer for spraying.
There are two problems with using a hole saw:
1. Hole saws have a center pilot drill, normally 1/4″. With care and a guide block, you would potentially solve this problem.
2. The size of the cut-out will be smaller than the size of the hole by the width of the cutter’s kerf.A dowel would work, but because it’s end grain, would not be an inconspicuous repair. The difference in grain pattern and how it takes stain and finish will be obvious. This may not bother you and you can call it a “feature.”
There are “face grain” oak plugs made at a dowel factory near here, but they have a 5000 qty minimum order. If you could find these at a local woodworking or craft store, that might be a good bet.
But I like your attitude of using suggestions to get the options opened up . Brainstorming…
Do you know the name of this product?
In general, I’ve found the “wonder products” less than satisfactory. There’s no such thing as a free lunch.
In the meantime, here’s an article that may provide some information.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/savingfinish.htmIf your unit is that new, contact the retailer or manufacturer.
Recliner mechanisms differ and can even change over time for a given manufacturer. Generally there are not adjustments (LaZBoy is one that does have a reclining tension adjustment.)
If you want to work on it yourself, flip it back and look for things that are obviously out of whack — springs that have pulled loose or broken, bolts or rivets that have sheared, interference, parts that have slipped past each other, broken cable releases, etc. I have found all these things causing problems.
Many manufacturers warranty the recliner mechanism for life, but after the initial period, it is parts only and not labor.
“Permanent markers” are not always permanent. Sharpies, for example are soluble in alcohol. But then you need to know what type of leather it is because alcohols can pull color from some leathers. A cloth dampened in denatured alcohol and lightly padded over the area can remove some inks.
Another option is https://shop.guardsman.com/store/detail/product_detail_theme_6/?product_id=6148 that you may be able to find in the “cleaning” section at Lowe’s or Bed, Bath, & Beyond.
HOWEVER– You must test any of these products in an obscure area to ensure that they will not cause damage to your leather (e.g., color loss).
Wood filler is never going to look like much but wood filler. A much better approach is to put in an inlay of matching wood. A diamond shape with the grain lined up and matched is least conspicuous.
Here is a web site that explains the router cutter and process:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/rotrinlays.htmlIf you don’t have a router, maybe you have a buddy that does and you can send him/her home with this bit and collar for the effort.
Here I thought you were linking to pressure washers or something. Very funny , Bill Hart.
I get bird poop all over my vehicles, but I think I know what your answer for that one will be, too.
Good for you. Sometimes you just have to repeat to yourself, “I am smarter than this chair.” 🙂
Now, appliance designers, they have some tricky ways to put things together. Hiding connectors under labels is a favorite.
I was repairing a chair a couple of weeks ago. For the life of me, I could not figure out how they got that screw from the back onto the arm. I had the back nearly half apart. I did an end-around and came in from the other direction.
From the Gorilla Glue web site, “There is no known solvent for cured Gorilla Glue.”
The only way I know to remove it is to scrape, sand, cut or abrade away.
Unless you clamped or otherwise secured the ‘ornament’ down, the foaming glue would probably have pushed it away, creating a gap and the foam has no structural strength. That is, it will probably fall off soon.
As a professional repair person, I can tell you I see botched Gorilla Glue jobs all the time.
It sounds like the glue is off-gassing. Depending upon the glue, this could be formaldehyde.
Give it lots of fresh air and see if it goes away, eventually.
Q: What is the material (leather, vinyl, or fabric?)
Q: How big is the burn? Is it into the padding?
Q: What is your expectation for an acceptable repair?
Fixes will vary from Duct Tape, iron-on patches, sew on a patch, fabric or vinyl repair kit from various places (Wal*mart carries some), or take it to an upholsterer (auto trimmer).
