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If cabinets are made in the last 15 years, there is a fair chance that they have a finish that won’t take anything over top of them. These are catalyzed or conversion (two part) finishes. Nothing will stick to them. If they are older or lacquered or varnished, you can apply some glaze, manipulate it around, and apply a new top coat to give an “antique” effect. Glazes are used to “dirty up,” adjust color, highlight features, and add interest.
The way to know for sure is to try out in an obscure place.
Note that chronic exposure to body oils will cause finish to degrade to goo. This is common around handles on cabinets, back rails on dining chairs, arms on chairs, and edges of desks and tables. A thorough cleaning may remove the goo down to bare wood. You are not removing the finish; you are removing goo that used to be finish. There is no saving this and you may need to reapply some finish to replace what was damaged.
An example:
before: http://s331.photobucket.com/albums/l463/byhammerandhand/?action=view¤t=dirtyarmchairbefore.jpgAfter: http://s331.photobucket.com/albums/l463/byhammerandhand/?action=view¤t=dirtyarmchairafter.jpg
If you want “diameter” of 24″ from flat to flat, do it as follows:
Draw a 24″ square. Draw diagonals from corner to corner that will intersect in the center.
With a compass point on one corner, set the distance from the corner to the center.
Strike an arc from each corner intersecting with both adjacent sides.
Connect the intersection points to make the clipped corners.
If you want 24″ diameter from corner to corner, the process is the same, but you’ll have to use some other method to determine the size square to draw.
If the parts are bolted together, tighten the nuts.
If they are the ‘hanger’ type, such as http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=5289&TabSelect=Details then lift up the rails and insert little shims of veneer or thin wood at the end of the rails between the rail and the posts, then push the rails back down.
I used some One-Time http://doitbest.com/Wood+stain+and+finish-One+Time-model-00300-doitbest-sku-773149.dib on my granddaughter’s swing set 3 years ago. My son in law had his deck professionally finished at the same time and it is peeling now and he’d really like to apply it to his deck, too.
It is expensive, but it’s 100% solids, UV cured, and in-the-wood type finish. They claim 7 year life-span, but in their field test in Cleveland, it’s still going strong after that. I figured if I only had to re-do this swingset every 7 years instead of every year, it paid for itself in labor costs after one year.
More: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8636092997846085351
Chronic urine exposure can “burn” the wood and cause irreversible chemical damage. If this is what you have you have several choices:
– An area rug
– Large piece of furniture
– Cut out and replace affected planks.In addition, rivets sometimes shear, arms bend, and springs break.
Like prior response, look carefully for something that does not appear correct and for any differences between left and right parts.
If you need help, call a furniture repair person who will come to your home. The place you bought it may have someone on staff or can make a recommendation.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TQWKQ?ie=UTF8&redirect=true
Wal*mart carries this in their auto section for about $10.
Sigh. Maple is one of those woods that is prone to blotching — uneven absorption of pigment stain. Unfortunately blotching is one of the few finishing mistakes that cannot be reliably corrected by stripping and refinishing. I’d ask the painter what he’s going to do to fix it to your satisfaction. I presume he did a sample board for you? I’m guessing not.
I did a job a few years ago in a high end home that the so-called painter messed up so badly, the general contractor had everything removed and rebuilt.
As far as I’m concerned, gambrel roofs look best when both chords are of equal length and each half is built just like a gable roof rafter. The ones not built this way (for example, in Home Depot’s parking lot) look just awkward to me. Once you pick the middle angle, the rest is simple geometry of a triangle that you can find in book on rafter layout.
Cabinets are really not much different than any piece of furniture as far as stripping and refinishing goes.
Remove the doors and drawer fronts (number them so you can return to exactly the same location). You will strip them elsewhere and the face frames in place. Once stripped and sanded lightly, you are ready to finish just like a new piece of wood.
If they are as bad as you say, it is a good time to replace pulls, knobs, and hinges. Here is a good place for quantity purchases:
http://www.wwhardware.comProbably the best finish that you can apply as a DIY is a good varnish. But learn how to apply varnish, because a lot of people put it on way too thick. I’d suggest picking up a copy of Bob Flexner’s “Understanding Wood Finishing” (2d edition) before getting started. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish8.html
It’s also a good idea to run some sample boards to get an idea for what your finish is going to look like after the wood, stain, and finish all contribute their look to the piece.
You can do this as long as your frame lines up right with the headboard posts. If not, there are a couple of types of adapters. One is a metal plate and the other is an angle. Both of these have slots for bolts to line up the top of the frame with a convenient spot in the headboard. You can find these adapters at many mattress stores.
The only thing is that it won’t have as much structural strength as if it was all one unit, so if you tend to sit in bed and lean on the headboard as a back rest, it might not be strong enough.
I typically use denatured alcohol to _lightly dampen_ a rag, then pad over the stain in a sweeping motion. But DNA can damage shellac, and in some cases lacquers. I use touch up aerosols to restore any damage.
BUT the prudent thing is to check the alcohol on an obscure spot BEFORE starting top and center on a table.
Before:
http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l463/byhammerandhand/inkspotsbefore.jpg30 seconds later:
http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l463/byhammerandhand/inkspotsafter.jpg
