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bobsbuddyParticipant
I have good luck with Goo-Gone. Just be sure to let it work for a few minutes and let the solvency work in your favor, or you’ll have to substitute a lot of rubbing.
If you have not yet peeled it off, I also find warming it with a hair dryer before trying to pull off will soften the adhesive and make it pull off easier and cleaner.
bobsbuddyParticipantPolyurethane is a very bad choice for exterior application. This includes the laughable “spar urethane.” It has very low UV resistance and will quickly fail.
I am not familiar with the Cabot product, what, if anything do they recommend as a top coat? In general, you can’t just grab two product at the apron store and expect them to play nicely together.
bobsbuddyParticipantIt’s my experience that crib hardware is not very standard. Contact tne manufacturer and/or retailer and see if you can buy parts. Otherwise, it’s a long row to hoe.
bobsbuddyParticipantDepending upon the extent of the damage and type of fabric, this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000T49RHE/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0007TQWKQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1J4Z98T3GA2KBJYJW2X7 may work.
You can find it at the auto section at Wal*mart, and I also saw it at my local Do-It-Best hardware store.
It takes a little skill to get a good color match, but even a patch will look better than a hole.
Another option, if you can find a scrap of fabric from underneath is to lay in a patch.
bobsbuddyParticipantSave the olive oil and vinegar for your salad, not for your floor.
bobsbuddyParticipantVery few old pieces are going to have value degraded greatly by refinishing.
August 4, 2009 at 8:42 pm in reply to: Oak door has black spots on it after using behr 2-in-1 no.63 #301566bobsbuddyParticipantThe typical problem is that oak is rich in tannins.
Tannins + iron + moisture -> black stains
I would venture a guess that somewhere along the line, you got a dose of steel or iron in your mix. The usual suspect is shards from steel wool.
The only cure for this is to strip off the stain with a stripper. Then apply oxalic acid to the whole area and let it work as directed. A second application might be necessary, but usually not. Neutralize the oxalic acid as directed on the can. The crystals in dust created from sanding oxalic acid-treated wood can be noxious. You can find small cans of Oxalic Acid in good paint stores or departments.
Let dry, keep the steel wool away and try again. Do not use steel wool anywhere in the finishing process except possibly after the last coat of finish is applied.
If you feel the need to use steel wool, get a non-woven abrasive pad such as Norton’s or 3M’s Scotch-Brite.
bobsbuddyParticipantI have a number of PC tools and have had to replace or shorten power cords a number of times. PC seems to make their cases a little on the small side and you have to put a good kink in the power cord where it comes out of the handle to enable the lid to close. I have the same saw. On my router, I finally just put on crimped bullet connectors so that next time I can just add them to the cord end and plug them in.
bobsbuddyParticipantSomething about “very good” and particle board do not go together.
Generally when particle board is wet, it swells and becomes friable. There is not a good way to fix this. If the damage is in a small area, it may be possible to apply clamps and cauls and tighten the clamps as much as you can. Then drizzle in some water-thin CA glue. You want the thinnest you can find so it soaks into the fibers as much as possible and bonds them together.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10562&filter=ca%20glue
But chances are it is not repairable unless you can replace parts.
bobsbuddyParticipantI am not sure why you cannot get it back in. But when I’m faced with problems like this, I remember that it was not a single piece fabrication. That is, it was once two pieces and put together, there is probably a way to both take it apart and put it back together.
June 30, 2009 at 12:16 pm in reply to: Remove tape adhesive from PreEngineered Hardwood Floors #300986bobsbuddyParticipantGoo Gone should really do it. Just let the product to its job by soaking for a few minutes.
“Paint Thinner” (odorless mineral spirts) should not harm the flooring, but it is not a strong in solvency as Goo-Gone.
Lacquer thinner (a soup of ketones, alcohols, acetates, and petroleum distillates) is probably too strong and I would not recommend this. Same with most of its components such as acetone and MEK.
You might also try a plastic putty knife or plastic razor blade to assist.
bobsbuddyParticipantThese are the most common
The last time I got replacements, I ordered directly from Stanley. This was before I found the hardware store a mile up the street carries them. If you have a “Do-It-Best” they may either carry them in the store, or you can use their free ship-to-store (Ace also has a similar program). Stanley charges shipping and handling.
bobsbuddyParticipantBarbara, Just what are you talking about? You aware this is a “help” forum and not any particular manufacturer’s customer service site?
bobsbuddyParticipantwhat you are talking about. There are many ways that bed frames are connected together. You may find replacements or retrofits here:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5783&filter=bed%20hardware
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11&filter=bed%20hardware
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5289&filter=bed%20hardware
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5288&filter=bed%20hardware
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=12
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5291 -
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