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I don’t agree with this approach. Nailing expanded metal lath to wood is not only ugly, but would make snow removal almost impossible. A refinement of this idea that is more acceptable is to apply pre-manufactured non-slip stair treads, pads or nosings. They are attractive, inexpensive and help increase visibility of the stair edge. For example:
http://www.handiramp.com/nonskidstrips.htmMany manufacturers have had recalls on composite siding due to rot or deliminator as you described. Your siding may be covered in one of these recalls. You will need to determine what siding is on the house by removing some pieces of it and seeing any branding information on the back-side. A professional may be able to identify the siding and document the damage for the purpose of a claim. Your materials may be covered but probably not labor.
If you can identify the siding manufacturer, check back and I’ll try to direct you to file a claim. Many sites online also have this information, including the manufacturers (LP, Masonite, Weyerhauser etc).
Post back with the type of solvent that was used, and we can be more specific. Often, solvent just removes the surface polish, which is a lot like a wax you use on your car. You can buy liquid cleaning and polishing compounds in the appliance department and BBQ aisle of your home improvement store.
The use of a pre-fabricated footing is no different than concrete. The depth of the hole to be excavated should place the base of the footing below local frostline per code. The problem with using a footing without a foundation pad is that its ability to hold a structure is dependent on soil characteristics. So, if you are able to sit the base of the footing on non-compressive soil or bedrock, all you need is the hole. If the soil has poor structural qualities, you may need a larger base under the footing. Local codes may specify a minimal footing area (1′ x 1′) or larger. The use of a pre-fab footing column may still require a concrete footing of specific depth and area to comply with code.
The term “redi-footing” is a bit misleading IMO. This is a support pier, the footing component is the area of the round support disk at the bottom, which is less than 10″ diameter. If that 10″ diameter meets your footing requirement, for your soil type and code, than you would not need additional concrete. Should be fine in non-permitted and low-rise decks with minimal structural requirements.
A wear spot that affects the final finish can be easily repaired by cleaning the area with mineral sprits. If the color still matches, simply use some aerosol spray polyurethane in the correct gloss to recover the finish. If the floor needs to be stained first, lightly sand and stain to match. If a larger area is affected, the floor finish may be due to be refinished by sanding and recoating. This article is a good summary: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/woodfloorfinishing
You have four items to check for proper function in a fixture like this:
1. power
2. bulb
3. starter
4. ballastFirst check to be sure you have power.
Second, be sure the bulbs are both good and are the right type for the fixture. If one end is dark or if the bulbs were flickering before failure, replace both.
Old fixtures used starters (3/4″ round metal cylinders) Replace them. I don’t know of a way to test. Chances are if you have zero function, this is not the problem.
Ballasts can be really expensive. If you are looking for the cheapest way out, you can buy a shop fixture at the home improvement store cheaper than buying a replacement ballast. Replacement has always fixed the problem for me.
You have to support yourself with a fair wage that includes the overhead of doing business, including insurance, transportation and contingencies. It sounds like you just need to use a multiplyer to adjust your time and materials price. For starters, just estimate the jobs the same way you have been, then multiply by 1.2 . If that doesn’t get it, use a bigger number. If you start being out-bid, reduce it.
You are doing a great job. Now pay yourself.
I have done quite a bit of drywall on plaster provided I don’t need to do plumbing, electrical or insulation behind the walls. The temptation is to use 3/8 drywall, but 1/2 looks better. You may probably need to build out trim at the doors and windows which is not hard if you just add 1/2″ clear stock. Also, electric outlets and light boxes need extensions. The thicker walls can get tricky around a shower or bath.
If you are willing to put up with the mess of demolition, IMO, its almost always better to get rid of old cracked plaster, then use greenboard drywall in the Bathroom, and cement board behind the bath/shower; expecially if you are installing tile.
If you overlay plaster with drywall be sure to use a 2-inch drywall screw to secure the panels.
I assume you want to reset the codes in the remote and opener unit for security purposes. Most systems use dip switches in the remote and at the controller for the opener. The 8 to 10 dip switches are numbered and are either on or off. Both the remote and controller switches must match in order to work. The switch settings in the remote are usually accessed by opening the remote battery cover or a cover plate. The switches in the opener are usually visible near the back or side of the opener unit power-head. Without a brand/model, that’s about all I can offer.
I suggest you try to amicably settle the matter. The worst outcome is that you have to bear the expense of carpet replacement in that room. Work through the realtors to lodge your complaint. It is probably not enough to get into a big battle over. Buy new carpet and underlayment yourself if necessary. Sometimes, its just less aggrevation to get it done. If it was throughout the house, I would probably pursue it harder. My guess is they knew of the problem, surface cleaned the carpets and hoped for the closing. Recleaning will not solve the problem.
a color matched epoxy fill and repair kit should be available at a stone and tile center that sells counters. The repair kits come with instructions. Epoxy filling of defects in stone is done even in new product. Fill, light sanding and buffing is better done by a pro if you are really fussy, or the countertops are a light color.
Its a nice surprise to find hardwood floors. The only effective refinishing method is to sand the floors and refinish with stain and sealer. Be sure to use an expensive test kit to be sure the paint is not lead containing, before sanding. Professional finishing is best but more than doubles the cost as compared to renting equipment and DIY.
Remember there are no guarantees. The floors may be painted because there is unrepairable damage or staining. It is always possible to apply an engineered 3/8″ or 5/8″ wood floor over the top which will look new, and be close to the same cost as professional refinishing. Your experience and abilities will determine the next step.
You might be able to find a lookup span table for this, but I doubt it. The loads need to be calculated by an engineer and the header selected should be able to withstand the estimated load. Loads will vary for construction materials, snow load and of course the uses of the space above the span. Any load transferred to the sides of the span, or any column must be transferred to the foundation footer. Right off the bat, I can say you will be better off with 2-6-foot doors and a center column.
Dont just go cutting a hole, this is a big structural change.
If your drain pipes are clear, you may need to replace the Tee fitting between the sink drains with a “baffle tee”. Your Tee fitting probably has a straight shot across the Tee. A baffle Tee has an internal deflector that directs flows downward into the drain towards the P-trap. A high power disposer causes water to flow at a velocity that can cross an unbaffled Tee to the otherside, and into the adjoining sink.
Sounds like you are missing a T and vent line. Your 1-1/2″ pipe from the sink should Tee (1.5-1.5-2) to a vent/drain, and the drain line is 2″ diameter to the waste line in the basement; 1-1/2″ for the stack. Sounds like you might be able to angle into the metal drain using a 22-1/2 degree fitting or two. Probably a rubber hub fitting to seal.
