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One can always count on your advice. And I know significant time/research goes into some of the answers.
Welcome to the “Team”
Regards,
DodgemanSomehow you have gotten the impression that this is an official Sears or *** **** site. IT IS NOT! It is made up of people that try to help others based on their own and sometimes professional experience.
I visit and try to help others from time to time. I have been doing this for about 6 years, and let me assure you 99% of the time I do it in the unregistered mode only because it is quicker and easier. I know others do the same. Do not ignor their comments only because they log in unregistered.
As to your mower, are you sure you have a bent crankshaft? Could it be the flywheel sheared its key and has slipped? How do you know it is bent?
DodgemanDepending where you live, if you use chlordane on the property, you must disclose it being used at the time of sale.
This could be a turn off to potential buyers.
I would not use it for a “potential” problem.
DodgemanCheck this post:
White rings on a buffet by KittyMom April 26th, 2005 08:20 PMAlso, a trick that used to work for my Father was to take the meat of a walnut or beechnut and rub it into the stain. The idea was to replenish the oils that were driven out of the wood by the heat.
Good Luck!
DodgemanMike, the power consumption is measured in watts, not amps. A 220 volt heater will draw 1/2 the amps as a 110 volt heater of the same wattage. The cost to power both would be the same.
However, the cost of wiring the 220 volt unit would probably be less as you could use smaller gauge wire.
Regards,
DodgemanI have been in the attic when it was 20 below zero. (degrees F)
No evidence of moisture, ice, frost. The moistue in the exhaused air seems to dissipate rapidly in the cold air. Of course, in a poorly vented attic, I would expect frost and ice buildup.
Regards,
DodgemanTwo cords of firewood would be 4′ high, 8′ long, and 8′ deep.
Anyway, check out this site for a $10 wood shed!
http://www.woodheat.org/firewood/firewood.htm
Good Luck!
DodgemanSkunks usually come around a particular yard for a food source. As Jay J’s link points out, they like grubs. Putting down a strong insecticide such as GrubX will help. Skunks can do much more damage than just digging a few holes. Thye can rut up your lawn to the point that you would swear that someone took a rototiller to wreck your lawn.
As to killing them, I can speak from personal experience that it doesn’t make much difference if you shoot them in the head, gut shoot, etc. They will all spray and stink up the place. My gun of choice is the 12 gauge with #4 or larger shot. Less chance of just wounding it. Although a 22 will work just fine if you are a good shot. Of course this depends where you live and how close your neighbors are.
Good Luck!
DodgemanTurn CW to shut off, and CCW to turn on.
As to other suggestions, I usually shut off the breakers at the main electrical panel for some major appliances such as the electric stove, electric dryer, etc. Just make sure you don’t shut off something critical such as a sump pump, etc.
During the summer, I leave the central air on, but at a higher setting, usually 80/82 degrees. In the winter I set the furnace down to 58/60 degrees. I close the electric garage door and shut off the power to that also (just to make sure some stray electrical signal doesn’t open it by accident while I’m gone) I shut off the computer, unplug it and disconnect it’s phone/cable connection to prevent any stray lightning strikes from damaging it.
Some people may think this is all overkill, but I believe in an ounce of prevention.
Good Luck!
DodgemanEither obtain an air conditioner that is set up to run on 220 volts or have the 220 volt circuit rewired for 110 volts.
You can NOT plug the 110 volt air conditioner into the 220 volt circuit.
Good Luck!
DodgemanFirst of all, I applaud you for wanting to shut off your water while your gone. It is simple insurance against a burst hose/pipe or failed valve or vandals ruining a major part of your house while your gone.
If you are doing this in a climate where it doesn’t get below freezing, then it is not necessary to drain the pipes. If you are going to be gone while it is well below freezing, then draining the pipes may help prevent burst pipes if the furnace goes out.
I would also shut off the water heater (if gas, turn the control to “pilot”)
If you have hydronic (hot water) heating, and the system depends on water make-up from your main supply, then you need to make sure that system has a water supply even if the rest of the house is shut off. This may require some replumbing of the system.
Hope this helps,
Good Luck!
DodgemanA lot of people don’t have living rooms that big!
It all depends on the existing floor and subfloor. If you have a minimum of 1 1/8 inch thick floor on 16 inch centers, you would not have to have the cement board underlayment. However, I would highly recommend it. The 1/4 inch cement board motared and screwed to the existing floor will make a world of difference in floor rigidity. This will stop the tendency for floor movement and the cracking of grout joints.
A 14×14 floor will require approximately 200 12×12 inch tile. That is a fairly big job. Done improperly, a poor job will show up quickly and detract from the value of your house. I wouldn’t take the chance.
Good Luck!
DodgemanI find that adding cross bracing to be much easier as compared to solid blocking. The variation from joist to joist, joist bowing, etc, make it difficult to cut and add blocking. Cross bracing when properly installed is just as effective. With the 24 inch on center joists (22.5 inches between each joist)and 2×8 (7.25 inch) depth, the correct angle to cut the cross braces at is 17.9 degrees. Apply a liberal amount of PL400 construction adhesive at the top and bottom of the brace, and screw the bottom end of the brace to the side of the joist near the bottom. the action of screwing the brace to the joist will force the opposite end up against the top of the joist. Once the PL400 cures, you have a solid connection.
I believe the improved rigidity of the floor is due mostly to the load sharing of one joist to the next pair, with a minor amount due to the reduced tendency to twist.
DodgemanIt sounds like the water hammer arrestors in your new house have become waterlogged. This is common and very easy to fix.
1) Shut off the main supply of water to your house. This is usually a shut off valve located where the water comes into the house.
2) Open all the faucets (both hot and cold) in the house. Open the faucets to the showers, bath tubs, and if you have any faucets in a lower lever such as the basement open them too.
3) let them open for about 3 to 5 minutes. and them close them all.
4) Turn the main water back on, and then open the faucets slowly again to allow any excess air to bleed/spit out.
5) You are finished. Most homes have an air chamber built into the water lines that go to showers, sinks, wash machines, etc. These air chambers absorb the shok of water being turned off, and prevent the pipes from “banging” These air chambers fill with water slowly over a perion of 6 months or so, and the water needs to be drained back out.
Good Luck! Let us know if ti works!
Dodgeman
