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Hi 1008cq,
I did a quick search at http://www.google.com and found this link:
http://www.bpa.gov/Energy/N/energy_tips/weatherization/index.cfm
Go there and click the link on “How to insulate a floor”. Read that, and then pay close attention to the different ‘materials’ you can use to install the insulation and/or keep it in place on a floor. There are links to pages like, “Figure 4.3”, and the like.
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi rcfuller306,
In the cooler months, it’s fairly normal for wood boards to shrink. Beings it’s dryer outside (and probably in the house) than it is in warmer months, there isn’t as much moisture in the air. Hence, the moisture leaves the boards and the boards shrink.
One way to control this is to install a humidifier to keep the house’s humidity at a constant level. When the moisture returns to the boards, they will expand.
Generally speaking, expansion and contraction is normal based on the aforementioned statements. Over time, dirt and grime works its way into the grooves when the boards have shrunk. And eventually, you could get splitting. This is one of the reasons the MFGR. recommends a regular cleaning of the boards. The better care you take in keeping the SMALL ‘obstructions’ off of your floor, the longer its life and beauty will last. I do mine 1 per week when I vacume. (Yes, I do both …) If you’re not cleaning your floor w/a recommended cleaner, then when you do, you’ll SEE the reality that I speak of.
RE: Zig-zag pattern – I don’t know what you mean.
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi JB,
The cause could vary …
The system could be undersized, the duct could be closed off, the damper (if any) may need to be opened, the run is too long, there could be ‘leaks’ in the ductwork, the room could be ‘leaking’ whatever heat it’s getting, the room could be poorly insulated, yes, the ductwork may need to be insulated.
Aside from the system being undersized, you can attempt to eliminate the other ‘thoughts’ I’ve mentioned. Insulate the duct where you can, make sure it’s not leaking, make sure there isn’t anything obstructing it, and make sure ALL of the dampers (if any) are OPEN. If there’s an access door to the attic in the room, make sure it’s insulated. If the room has 2 outside walls, and/or if the room is on the north side of the house, that doesn’t help. Perhaps a small, electric heater will work. That’s your call.
IF there are other ducts that are the same distance from the source, or further, how do they do? You mention that the air in this room is ‘low’. I assume it’s a forced-air system. IF other ducts in other rooms are as far, or further, but they heat well, take a look at what is DIFFERENT, and use the aforementioned ‘thoughts’ to guide you.
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi Bart,
Assuming they’re the ‘pinned’ hinged doors …
I work some WD-40 into the pins. You don’t even have to remove the pins. Just put a rag behind the hinge and spray. Or, remove the pin, spray it, and re-insert it. You could work some WD-40 into a small rag and wipe it on to the hinges too. That way, there isn’t any spraying going on.
Good luck! My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi jjedda,
If you’re replacing ‘bad’ sub-flooring’, then when you remove it, you should see the joists. Just use 1-1/2″ Decking Screws (at a minimum) to secure the 3/4″ plywood to the joists. 2″ screws would be best. If you’re going over TOP of existing flooring, post back w/more details. (If you do post back, do you know what additional ‘layers’ are installed???)
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi dunlops (and Harold),
Forgive me, Harold, but did you miss this one? It’s not like you. Or I’m amiss on this!!! 🙂 Anyways,
dunlops – I believe you need to insulate the ductwork in the ceiling. Yes, obviously, the moisture in the air in the ceiling space is condensing-out on the warm/hot vent-duct, and dripping on to your ceiling. When you buy the roll of foil wrap, just be sure you read the Installation Instructions and don’t wrap the insulation on the wrong side!
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi ros0826,
Go here:
… and enter in:
squeaking hardwood floors
… don’t use quotes or anything.
There, you’ll find TONS of links w/many different ideas on ways to attack your problem. In short, the fix will depend on access to the floor from below or what’s on top.
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi sheiki571,
This question is a very broad one. W/O knowing a fair amount of specifics, it may be best to have a pro visit the house. The cause of uneven heating varies. Undersized system, closed, obstructed vents, missing/obstructed returns, undersized ducts, not enough vents/returns, improper/missing/poorly-installed insulation.
You did mention that there’s a draft. You need to find that source and plug it. Older heating systems AND clothes dryers ‘suck’ in air to ‘feed’ the flames. Hence, Make-up Air needs to come from somewhere. And if there are sufficiently-sized ‘openings’ near these systems, the Make-up Air will be pulled in from these openings. You probably never think of it but have you ever felt the amount of air that comes out your clothes dryer??! The Make-up Air has to come from SOMEWHERE!!!
If you have the same level of drafting when the dryer is off and when the heating system is off, then you have a serious outside-air leak! BUT, if the draft occurs when one (or both) of these sytems are ON, then you’re looking at Make-up Air. How do you fix this? Well, that’s a tough one. You want the house to breath. I have an self-enclosed heating system. The air that feeds the furnace comes directly from the outside. (It’s a 2-pipe system. 1 in, 1 out …) Our clothes dryer is downstairs. There are plenty of ‘openings’ along the sill of the foundation for plenty of Make-up Air! Out of site – Out of mind …
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi JEdgmon,
RE: Home Warranty coverage – You’ll have to talk to your Insurer about that. The worst they can say is no. File anyway …
I’m going to assume that you see this problem in the winter. Assuming that, heat is leaking from the living space up into the attic. Find the LOWEST-hanging sheathing nail and start your investigation into the leak straight down from that nail. Since heat rises, the nails ‘above’ the plane-line of the lowest nail may show the same rust marks.
The only other possibility is that there’s a leak in/amongst the shingles at, or ABOVE, the lowest-hanging nail. Water could be running down either under the shingles or under the paper, and at the nail(s) that’s leaking, it’s coming in at that point because that’s the least point of resistance/entry for the water to follow. That’s a larger headache to solve because the water-path could be horizontal or angled, not just directly from above.
Other than that, maybe somone else has some thoughts. My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi Wyvern10,
I’m going to add to what Andy said.
For the benefit of others that might be reading this and experiencing the same problem (and perhaps for your benefit), long story short – Warm air is leaking into the attic and it’s FULL of moiture. THen, the moisture condenses out on the cold surface(s) in the attic. Why the air it getting INTO the attic is going to take some work on your part.
Normally, winter is the season that needs moisture in the house. Summer is the season where it needs to be removed. Since you’re having to run a dehumidifier in winder, SOMETHING in your house is dumping an awful lot of excess moisture into your house (or attic).
If you have a ventless stove/oven, or if your clothes dryer is venting into the house or if the exhaust from the shower/bathroom is dumping moist air into the house, you need to get that air to the outside! (As Andy says), If you have a vent that takes air outside BUT it runs through a cold space like an attic, then insulate the ductwork all the way. If your have a vent that takes cold air DIRECTLY outside (through a wall), then assuming the wall is insulated, you need do any more insulation. The 1st example may be your problem but look into the other ‘moisture sources’ I mentioned. It sounds backwards since winter normally needs moisture in the house.
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi Sheri,
You need more than 1″ insulation!!!
I have a crawlspace under our family room. It has R-39 insulation under it for insulation. It’s still pretty cold (although the crawlspace is vented to the outside even in winter), but tolerable.
Nonetheless, you need better insulation. Also, depending on the heating system in the house, if there are ‘cracks’ on/around the floor in the bedroom, cold air MAY be getting pulled into the room (and ultimately the house). This is known as ‘make-up air’. Most older and less ‘fancy’ heating systems use the house air to feed the furnace. The newer, more expensive models use outside air. (THey’re essentially a closed system.) ANyways, don’t add plastic to help block the outside air. This will end up creating condensation on cold surfaces and you’ll have a rotting problem. I’ve heard of installers using things like Tyvek to help block air.
What I plan to do is fix my problem when I replace the carpeting in the room. I’ll be using a low-expansion foam to start filling in the larger holes. The smaller holes/cracks will be stuffed (using a flat screwdriver) with foam or insulation. It will be a project but I need to do more too to stop air from coming into the family room and to try to warm up the floor. Perhaps look into ‘blocking’ any vents in the coal room.
If you know someone in the family or someone that’s a friend, who’s a bit handy, just have them come over and review the problem w/you. I’m sure they can point out some things that can be done to help your situation. A case of beer or a gift certificate or a home-cooked dinner go a long way to thank them for their time!
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi Roth,
First, don’t do anything that would in the LEAST amount of way obstruct or reduce the airflow into the intake. That said, …
I haven’t came across any municipality that didn’t have a minimum height requirement for the intake. In my municipality, it’s 18″. You should find out what it is in your area. Find out the maximum height too and what’s involved in going significantly higher than the mininum (assuming the minimum isn’t good for your area.)
While you’re at it, have your vented piping ‘reviewed’ too. You don’t want it clogged either.
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
HI fallguy,
Harold is an expert. Read his Follow-up at least twice!!!
To add to Dodgeman – I agree. 2-stage, 90+ efficiency is the way to go. The 2nd stage will kick in when it’s needed. Since the unit will, most likely, be using the single-stage about 80-90% of the time, I wouldn’t worry about being marginal. The 2nd stage MAY be a little over-kill but it’s not going to hurt when it’s in use even on those cold, COLD days!
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi tamimercer,
Any petroleum-based product should remove the residue. HOWEVER, depending on the surface that the residue is ‘stuck’ to, the removal-product MAY damage the finish.
There are plenty of tamer, petroleum-based products out there that should work. Skin So Soft, for example may work. If it’s mild enough for your skin, it’s mild enough for everything else. Another product I’ve used is called Born Again. Even those citrix-flavored ‘wipes’ that can be bought to remove bandaid tape-residue from your skin should work. (Just like Skin So Soft …)
Jumping ahead – Next time you paint, spend the extra $$$ for Painter’s Tape. It is more expensive BUT you won’t have this problem. Also, Masking Tape usually allows the paint to seep through it and on to the surface below. If this is the problem too, post back and let ‘us’ know what surfaces (and finishes) have the bleed-through, as well as telling us if it’s water or oil-based paing, and we’ll go from there.
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
Hi Chodgin,
You may be able to have Dampers installed on the vents that feed the bedroom.
OR, You could sleep in separate rooms.
If you choose Option 1, block the vents by ‘plugging them’ where the vent(s) connects to the Plunum or where the vent(s) connects to the main Feeder Duct. If you were to back-trace the vents that feed the room to where those vents feed off a main vent, you’d block it there. It’s best NOT to block it at the bedroom. HOWEVER, in blocking vents ANYWHERE, you could over-work your HVAC system because the system wants to push out the air. Since the system was ‘sized’ for the house where your vents are suppose to be OPEN, now that you’re closing/blocking them you could do damage to the system over time. IF, for example, one of the bedroom vents ‘shared’ a wall with the hallway, you could then retro-fit a new vent in the hallway (and vent the heat out there) and then close off the one in the bedroom. IF also, for example, you have a vent in the bedroom that’s on an OUTSIDE wall, there’s no way you could implement the aforementioned idea. Bottom line – I’d only plug the vent in the bedroom, itself, if you can vent the air in that duct elsewhere.
All in all, you run great risks in damaging your plumbing system and who-knows-what-else by chilling (freezing) and heating these ‘things’ over time. The temperature of an OUTSIDE wall, even if it’s insulated, is much, MUCH lower than the air in the house, itself. Letting the temp in the house drop as it is, then if there’s any plumbing in the wall, you could cause them to burst.
It’s just fine that you both like it cold in the house at night. Find a safe balance for the house temperature and sleep in separate rooms on work days. Share the same room when you need/want to.
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: God Bless America!
