Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
..but not a plumber… It sounds feasible, although It also seems like it would take a powerful pump.
Why do they say it can’t be done?
If it’s electric, and runs on a normal 110v outlet, that’s *probably* too much current. Can you just run a wire from the vent hood down into the basement and wire into a less-used circuit?
Is the outlet for the stove is only 110v ? If so, then the power is just used for the clock and the ignitor. If that’s the case, then the stove alone + the hood fan should not overload the circuit.. But what else is on that circuit? It might be your refrigerator or microwave, etc…
Regarding 2 & 3:
-Ask at the hardware store what you’ll need… I’m sure they can fix you up right…
-If you think it’s a bad idea, it might be wise to call in some help. Electrical work isn’t super hard, but it’s also not something you should do if you’re not sure about it.Just kidding…
There may be a tool for it, but I would suggest something like a pair of needle nose pliers with a short, rubber strap held in the jaws.. (or a metal rod – like a socket entension – with a rubber strap stuck to it somehow.) So you’d end up having a tool where the rubber strap is perpendicular to the pliers, forming a “T”. Wrap the strap around he pliers and stick it into the broken off pipe. (You’ll probably have to experiment with how long the rubber strap is to get the right amount of grip and still fit into the pipe.) Then you should be able to twist the pliers, and the strap will grip the inner diameter of the pipe and (hopefully) turn it out…
This is a bit of a guess, but you may have some dampness in the attic….?
Dampness (and especially in combination with heat fluctuations) seems like a likely culprit for pushing dirty water vapor through the plaster.How old is your house?
Is the ceiling plaster/lath or is it drywall?
How well is the attic vented?
Is there a large temperature difference between the attic and the living room?I hope this helps! Good luck!
For the angled part of the stairs:
1. Measure the height from the ceiling to where the paper will stop (4′ from the floor.)
2. Then, (assuming 24″ paper and an 8/10 stairwell rise) add 16″ to the measurement from step 1. (Convert the number to feet, if you measured it in inches.)
3. Count the number of stair treads. (Again, assuming 10″ treads and an 8″ rise) Multiply the number of stairs by 10 inches and divide by 12 inches/per foot. That will give you the length of the wall being papered in feet.
4. Multiply the length of the wall (from step 3) by the measurement from step 2. This is roughly the number of square feet you have to cover on ONE SIDE of the stairs. Assuming the other side looks just like it, multiply by two.*** When you are measuring and figuring, always round up.
*** If the wallpaper has a large pattern that has to be matched up, it will add to the amount you need to order. But the square footage should be the same – so assuming that the person at the wallpaper store knows their trade, they can tell you how much extra to order for matching and for waste.You want the vent to be as close as possible, and also keep it away from windows or air vents. You should be able to direct it to the back of the roof, just try to do it in as short a distance as you can. .. and with as few bends as possible also.
I suppose you can do it.. How big is the surface? I don’t like having the walls gain the thickness of drywall over plaster .. When faced with a similar situation, I found it to be easier in the long run to tear out the plaster & lath and put the drywall on the studs. Of course, if you have a large wall, that makes a large mess…
I’ve been using a sanding/cutting disc that attaches to the drill to sand some “texture” off of the walls of the house I’m working on. (Texture in this case is drywall compound where patches were done and then not sanded or primed before painting.) Here is the product I’ve been using .. it makes quick work of plaster & paint:
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=49112-356-16992
