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Do some detective work…clean up as much water as possible, then run the tub (not the shower). If the floor’s wet, its likely a leak in the valve. If the floor isn’t wet, then try running the shower. If the floor is wet now, then it’s probably either a leak in the shower riser (up to and including where the shower arm is attached) or, its backing up from the tub spount when you pull the diverter knob on the spout (which is easier to fix).
There could be somethig in there. I would try pulling the toilet and pouring a big bucket of water down the drain. If the drain wont accept a 5 gallon bucket of water without backing up, then you have drain problems. Otherwise, I’d say the trouble is with the toilet.
I recently used a product for the first time which may work. It’s made by DAP and was found in the paint section at Home Depot. It’s called water putty, and is a grayish powder you mix with water. It was easy to work with and left a smooth finish. Once it dries, it can be cut, sanded, carved, drilled, etc… so would be rigid enough. I don’t know how it works underwater though, so you’d have to check the directions ~AND~ if your acrylic tub has much flex to it, the patch may pop out. But for around $8 (I think), it may be worth a try
If you DO use expanding foam, understand it will then be a pain in the behind to do anything in the future in that wall cavity, i.e. electrical, plumbing, etc… since it will be filled with foam.
You could get some expanding foam to spray through small holes made in the drywall. The pencil-sized holes could later be easily plugged & patched, and since they’re inside a cabinet, you wouldn’t have to do a perfect job & no one would ever notice.
Here’s a pic that may help. The union Ig refers to is at the point where the hot water outlet comes out of the tank.
http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/appliances/images/waterheater-01.jpg.If this is the line that goes from the bottom of the toilet to the valve on the wall, just turn that valve off. Replace it with a flexible type line.
You said the bowl fills, so the tank is releasing the water to the bowl ok. The drain itself takes water fine, and snaking didnt help, so assuming the toilet had been working right and this just started, it sounds like there may be something stuck in the toilet trap. When you look at the side of the toilet you can see how the water would flow up from them bowl, around, then back down to the drain. I’ve found deodorant bottles, small hairbrushes, a piece of a mini-blind wand (go figure), etc…lodged in this spot. Try the snake again, you may be able to get it out. Otherwise, you’ll need to replace the toilet.
Assuming you’ve already tried swapping bulbs to rule that out, check the ends of the fixture (where the pins from the tubes go) for cracks/breaks/loose connections. You can buy replacement parts. Otherwise, the problem could be the ballast, which can also be replaced.
It’s possible there’s a piece of debris caught somewhere; aerator, supply line, shut off valve, etc…
Assuming the cabinets are designed to be hung from the ceiling, I’d use lag bolts into the ceiling joists. Just be sure the cabinets are built to allow this type of installation; many times the tops of cabinets are just 1/4″ to 3/8″ plywood stapled in place, which is insufficent to carry the weight of a cabinet full of dishes or whatever.
The two main things you can do are to control sources of moisture and increase ventilation. To decrease or control excess humidity and condensation:
Use exhaust fans in your kitchen, laundry and bathrooms.
Vent gas burners, clothes dryers, etc. to the outdoors.
Shut off furnace humidifiers and other humidifying devices in your home.
Be sure that the ventilating louvers in your attic, basement or crawl spaces are open and amply sized.
Open fireplace dampers to allow an escape route for moisture-laden air.
Air out your house a few minutes each day.
If you have a crawlspace, make sure there is a vapor barrier between the earth & subfloor of your home.
