Gary Slusser

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 66 total)
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  • in reply to: aquativa water system #289463
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    What equipment do you have? An RO, softener, backwashed filter, regenerated filter etc.?

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Air in Line (Gary) #287302
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    You should find the leak before replacing water lines. A well driller or pump guy can find it and possibly fix it rather than replacing lines. As I think I’ve said before, it could be the pitless o-ring, or a loose hose clamp on PE pipe, etc..

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: I need answers… #287275
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    Sorry, I was confusing you with another post, you already said you had a submersible.

    The air will probably be coming from a leak above the water level in the well, but that is not the only possibility.

    Remove the well casing cap and see if you can hear water dripping or spraying when the pump is running. Someone will have to watch the gauge or you feel the water line or casing for vibration; which tells you the pump is running.

    If you hear water, you proved a leak and can assume that is the cause of the air in the water. If not, tighten all hose clamps on your water lines that you ca nget to and see if that helps. If not then test for methane in the water by filling a 2 liter soda bottle half full, cap it tight, shake it hard, light a match or lighter, remove the cap, hold the flame in front of the open neck of the bottle and squeeze the air out of the bottle across/thru the flame and if it ignites, you have methane in the water, not air.

    If it doesn’t ignite, you’ll have to call a well driller, pump guy or only a plumber that is capable of pulling the pump, and have then see what they can find causing the air in the lines. With high water uses, the well may be drawn down to the inlet of the sub pump IF you are in a drought, that adds air to the water.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Gary #287253
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    You forgot to answer this: Do you have a submersible pump in the well or a jet pump above ground?

    Question. let’s say it is the pressure tank causing the problem…. where does the air come from that gets into the pressure tank to then allow air out of it into the water going to your faucets? I suspect you think it’s from the air in the tank, ok… now where does the air come from that replaces the air in the tank? Or should you simply forget about this air in the water lines problem because soon there won’t be any more air in the tank to get into your water/pipes? It’s damned near impossible that it is the tank.

    What type tank do you have; painted = bladder type or galvanized = ‘air over water’?

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Well system air in lines #287212
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    Do you have a submersible pump it the well or a jet pump above ground?

    And how do you know you don’t have a dry well condition, have you run out of water?

    Was any work done on the well or well plumbing or pump lately? How long have you had air in the lines?

    It could be methane.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Well Water #287175
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    You don’t have your own well, you use treated municipal well water, it won’t have iron but it may have sediment but that wipes off surfaces very easily. The water probably is hard and if so you may need a softener.

    If you need a softener, you should look at a softener or filter using the Clack WS-1 control valve. If you want to be a DIYer, buy it online.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Water Filter #287173
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    First you need a water test for at least iron, hardness and pH.

    Good/best and cheap usually don’t go together but, you can pay way too much for low quality equipment. There is no “softener” that doesn’t use salt.

    You should look at a softener or filter using the Clack WS-1 control valve. If you want to be a DIYer, buy it online.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: smell in water #286918
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    It is caused by sulfate reducing bacteria (SRB)in the water that use the anode rod to create the H2S gas and its odor.

    To get rid of the odor, you must kill the bacteria, remove or replace the rod with a different type (material) or increase the temp of the heater to 140f. You can not use a UV light to kill the bacteria, that will not get rid of the odor. The bacteria is non harmful to humans and pets.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: My well #284551
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    You have a serious water leak. A good or bad pressure tank can’t cause the pump to run when no water is being used….

    The check or foot valve on the end of the drop pipe in the well is the primary cause but… it can be anywhere. Shut off the main water valve. Watch the gauge, if it still falls, the leak is on the well side of the gauge. If it holds, it’s on the house side. If on the well side, it can be underground to the well but more likely it’s a leaking check valve in on the submersible pump’s outlet or a jet pump’s foot valve or a hole in the drop pipe or a leaking fitting or the pump is about to fall off a fitting.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Water Softeners #284348
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    You cut out a piece of water line maybe 6-10″ long or longer and plumb the softener’s inlet and outlet lines into the main cold water line and run the drain line to a drain line etc.. So you need to know how or be willing to learn how, to do simple water line plumbing. You may or may not have to solder. It usually takes 2.5 to 3.5 hours. And buying online and installing it yourself usually saves you from hundreds to thousands of dollars.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Autotrol 155 Water Softner #284346
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    You either push/pull the rod or turn the separate handles depending on what type by pass valve you have.

    If the by pass is a manual 3 way valve type in the plumbing, not on the control valve, then open the valve between the in/outlets of the control valve plumbing and shut the valves on the in/outlet plumbing.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Water Softener #283724
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    Use solar crystal salt instead of block or pellets. Solar totally dissolves, pellet and block doesn’t and they cause your problem.

    Use a few gallons of warm water and give it time to dissolve the built up rock hard salt in the bottom of the tank. Then break up what you can and throw it away where it won’t come in contact with metals or vegetation, like in the garbage.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: water softener #283721
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    The people you bought it from should give you the instructions, I do.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Methane #283015
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    would have been an accurate description of your problem and probably would have gotten you more than one reply attempting to help you.

    Maybe it’s a vent pipe that is not high enough or where air blows the odor toward the house instead of away from it. It may be from a neighbor’s vent and not yours. Anybody else doing any remodeling?

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

    in reply to: Methane #283000
    Gary Slusser
    Participant

    Except you can’t smell or taste methane.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 66 total)