vinyl siding

[ron green]

I would like to know if i can get good directions on how to insall vinyl siding on my house.

[Jay J]

Ron,

I’ll start off by telling you 1) I’m not a sider, and 2) I don’t work for discussions.tommmymac.us, and 3) I don’t get paid for ‘this’, and 4) I don’t work for Ashland-Davis / Certainteed, and 5) nor do I work for Home Depot of the like. Now that we have that out of the way …

This is the type of job that, at the least, requires basic knowledge of carpentry. Working w/doors and windows a little helps too. You’re saying, “There’s no wood or 2×4’s involved in this project! How would ‘basic carpentry skills’ help me???” Well, there’ more to carpentry than swinging a hammer. The tools-of-the-siding-trade are used by carpenters. Thus, working w/them or any specialized for a siding job, basic knowledge comes in real handy. Let me suggest a few things too about the siding itself. If it’s in your taste, stick with a neutral color. WHite, baige, bone, tan, gray, and the like. Reds and greens and browns aren’t everyone’s favorite color but most folks can live with the aforementioned colors. (It helps at selling time for your house.) Also, make sure you’re installing up agains a smoothe, FLAT surface. If you’re not going to remove your ‘current face’, you need to check w/the manufacturer on what you should do FIRST so you don’t void their warranty. If you do any demolition, consider 1/2″ insulation board at the least. Caulk any places where water or wind-driven rain might get into after you put up the board. Consider adding GFCI outlets and spot lights BEFORE you install the siding. THe same for any more hose faucets. (You only need to put in the ‘boxes’ so you can side. Later on, you can install any fixtures. Make sure you at least run wire to the location, and piping too, so the boxes are in an installable place!) If you don’t do any demolition, and you end up installing a flat surface, your siding will be THAT MUCH MORE thicker than the current siding. It will affect doorways and window frames. If it’s too thick, it may look funny. (That’s why I’d consider demolition of the current siding, where you add 1/2″ insulation board, then side. Most likely, your new facad will end up where the ‘current’ one is.)

I’d use siding that’s at least .042 in thickness too. NOW, to FINALLY answer your question, if you go to Ashland-Davis / Certainteed, click the pull-down for PROFESSIONSALS, and select Installation. You can download a Adobe PDF Document with ALLLLLLL the info you’d want on this job. OR, if you buy your siding from them, you can get the book. I don’t think they’ll give you the book w/o buying the ‘stuff’. Home Depot carries this brand. They MAY stock what you want but if not, you can certainly order it because they do business w/them. (I did it because they didn’t stock what I wanted.) If your order for siding, accessories, board, caulk, tools, etc., etc., is over $2000, in my area, they’ll deliver the stuff for FREE. (I did 2000 sq. ft., ie., 20 squares. I also did some roofing …)

Whew! I’ve said a lot. If you need more info, post up or e-mail me direclty. My best to ya and hope this helps.

Jay J

PS: If you can hold onto any ‘stuff’ you have from demolition until you’re completely finish the job, that’s when I’d get the dumpster. Otherwise, it will sit on your lot for weeks-on-end and not really get used. That’s expensive. By waiting until you’re done, you can fill it all at once and pay a week’s fee (the minimum). AND, your neighbors won’t throw stuff in it at midnight where you wake up the next day and it’s FULL!

[william cooper]

could i please get directions on how to install vinyl siding.

thanks!

[gregg black]

help

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