As with good a good dental-cleaning, it’s NOT a quick process once the surface gets to the state you’re describing!
The ONLY way to get back to “square-one” is by sanding, and possibly using a stripper in detailed areas. Even these areas may need a Dremel-sander touch-up.
* Get a good 1/4-sheet Palm-sander, and lots of 50-grit paper for initial coating removal.
* Use 80-100 grit for final smoothing.
* Dust-mask & eye-goggles are important too…the dust will be a flyin’!
* Vacuum ALL dust off, and lightly wipe with a paint-thinner dampened cloths. You’ll be surprised how much more dust comes out of the grain!
>> NOW you’ve got a clean, sound surface that’ll absorb and hold stain evenly.
>>> FORGET Lemon-Oil & Linseed oil!! These are VERY SLOW to dry, are mold magnets, and not that durable.
>>> Use 3 coats of a good SPAR polyurethane, or, better yet, a Sikkens exterior siding product that forms a sheen.
* It’s very popular up here for beautiful wood garage doors, siding, etc.
* Not the cheapest stuff in the world (Log & Siding series is ~ $75/gallon), but it’s the only game in town for many uses.
* 2 coats mandatory, 24 hrs. apart.
* Check out:
http://www.nam.sikkens.com
* This stuff is used frequently in MN Lakes country on Log homes, etc.
* Couple years ago, we ordered in a $3,000 pallets’-worth for ONE newer home!!
* On a properly prepped door, it looks beautiful!
Faron
.
