Tommy Mac Discussions › Forums › Fix-it Forum: Home Improvement & Do It Yourself Repair Forum › Hot Water Heat Problems
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May 8, 2001 at 5:33 pm #22684Dave in UTGuest
Hi,
As part of a remodel I had to remove one of the “radiators” (section of pipe and fins) from my hot water heat system. I drained the heating system, removed the radiator and replaced it with plain pipe located below the floor. Everything went well until I tried to fill and fire up the system again. Hot water from the boiler is not making it to any of the radiators. I imagine that air in the lines is preventing the water from reaching the radiators. Is this reasonable? Any suggestions on how to purge the air from the lines? I noticed that the radiators all have a removable plug on one of the copper elbows. Your suggestions will be most appreciated. Thanks! Dave
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May 8, 2001 at 6:45 pm #105335Harold Kestenholz – Hydronic NetworkGuest
There is a procedure to follow at http://www.hydronic.net
It is too long to post here. -
May 10, 2001 at 4:50 pm #105421Dave in UTGuest
Thanks Harold! I found some useful information at the site. The Bell & Gossett pdf had some useful safety information. I would like to share a few points with other do-it-your-selfers.
Well, I got the air purged from my system. The boiler was fairly easy. I followed the procedure at Harold’s site. Getting the air out of the lines was another matter. Each radiator had a plug/bleed fitting on one of the elbows. After the **cold** system was pressurized I went along each loop of the system and partly removed the plug and listened for the sound of escaping air. I then fired up the boiler and no flow through! After things cooled down, I repeated the bleed process. This time one of the loops was fine, but the other needed another round of air purging. Finally, all is OK. A word of warning – make sure that your system is cold before trying to bleed it. On one radiator I turned the bleed plug a bit too far and it came out, showering me with (fortunately!) cold water. It was probably pretty funny to watch, but would have been very serious if the boiler was fired up. Take care! Dave -
September 23, 2002 at 1:56 pm #118996Randy AllenGuest
I need to replace three hot water heater radiators. They are about 1 foot 9 inches tall. They have six columns. One has 18 rows. Another has 8 rows. One has 4 rows. I live in Springfield, MO. They are 3/4 inch fittings. They are a bench style. Cast iron.
Randy 417-593-3375
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October 5, 2002 at 10:21 am #120053Bill in MinnesotaGuest
Hi,
I have an old house that is heated by hot water radiators. I live in Minnesota and I am thinking about supplementing with a wood stove. Since a central thermostat regulates my house temp, is there any chance that my water radiators would have a problem with freezing if I used a wood stove. Several of the radiators are along the walls in different rooms far from the thermostat. I plan on putting the wood stove in the same room as the thermostat. Does the water in the radiators circulate even when the thermostat does not kick the boiler on? -
October 24, 2002 at 12:14 pm #122832Tim HebbGuest
Hello,
I am trying to locate some HM-2 zone valves made by the Dole Co. (Now out of business).I want to use these as that is what is in the system now. I do not want to compromise the system by replacing them with a different style as this will be costly as these are in my motel (20 units). Any and all help will be appreciated.
Please respond to my message at me e-mail address tjsna@theramp.net
Thank You-Tim Hebb -
November 26, 2002 at 6:18 pm #127426JAmes BurtonGuest
I have hot water heat and would like to know if there is any way to get the lime out of the radiators and pipes without replacing them?
Thanks for your help. -
November 26, 2002 at 6:25 pm #127428James BurtonGuest
i have hot water heat and would like to know if i can dissolve the lime in the pipes and the radiators without replacing them. I have lived here over 27 years and had to replace the boiler once. Thanks for your advice.
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December 27, 2002 at 12:25 am #131994Warren DanceGuest
I have a hot water heating system that uses two 40 gallon gas water heaters. One went bad, during replacement of one of the water heater,,i forgot how the cold and the hot lines were place.
When I re installed, from the cold water supply to the cold water-in of the first heater, then the hot-out of the first hot heater to the cold- in of the second heater, the the hot out of the second to the house hot water. this line has a tee one goes to the heating system and the other to the hot water taps. is this correct the heaters should be in series? -
January 21, 2003 at 6:45 pm #137794Gary WightmanGuest
I removed one radiator, then tried purging system at highest point. Seems fine, then lines start gurgling again. Is it possible to be getting more air in line?
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January 23, 2003 at 8:05 pm #138301Ken ShieldsGuest
On the second floor of my house, four of the radiators have been bled–one (last radiator in the loop) does not have a valve for bleeding. The two radiators at the end of the loop never get hot. I know there is water in them because one was bled, and the other had a small leak at the open/close valve.
Any suggestions or ideas about what to do or why this is happening would be appreciated.
Thanks
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January 23, 2003 at 8:06 pm #138302Ken ShieldsGuest
On the second floor of my house, four of the radiators have been bled–one (last radiator in the loop) does not have a valve for bleeding. The two radiators at the end of the loop never get hot. I know there is water in them because one was bled, and the other had a small leak at the open/close valve.
Any suggestions or ideas about what to do or why this is happening would be appreciated.
Thanks
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January 23, 2003 at 8:07 pm #138303Ken ShieldsGuest
On the second floor of my house, four of the radiators have been bled–one (last radiator in the loop) does not have a valve for bleeding. The two radiators at the end of the loop never get hot. I know there is water in them because one was bled, and the other had a small leak at the open/close valve.
Any suggestions or ideas about what to do or why this is happening would be appreciated.
Thanks
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February 4, 2003 at 9:57 am #140652Bill BarnettGuest
I have hot water heat with 4 zones. 3 work fine, but the 4th in my basement will not work. The value opens when called for , ( I have removed the valve and it operates fine when switched on)but no wate moves.
I increased the pressure from 12 to 16 lbs to see if there was an air lock but still no movement. The raditors are on the floor of the basement and have no air bleeds
and are below the boiler. My last hope is to to try to back flush with a hose from an outside faucet to get the line moving. Any other ideas? -
March 13, 2003 at 10:30 am #148786MeganGuest
We just replaced the thermostat to a digitial. This morning when I woke up the heat was at 59 and should be at 63 by 6:00am. I hit heat override to 64 and nothing happened. Any ideas? It worked just fine last night!!
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September 2, 2003 at 10:56 am #180209judyGuest
I have old upright cast iron radiators throughout my little antique house, fired by an oil furnace. I would like to replace one in the bathroom and one in the front hall with baseboard hot water radiators. Is this feasible? What kind of costs are involved?
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September 18, 2003 at 1:45 pm #182555Mark AshmoreGuest
We have had the 3 way valve replaced, the electric motorised valve that runs the 3 way valve replaced, a new timer panel and still we are getting hot water to our radiators when the hot water timer and central heating timer is on but the central heating wall thermostat on the wall is turned to the minimum temperature of 6C even when the ambient air temperature is 20+C. Can anyone help? Is it maybe an electrical problem to the motorised valve or is the central heating wall thermostat in need of replacement? or is it possibly something else?
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October 27, 2003 at 2:59 pm #187557Perry HarringtonGuest
Hello I put a new boiler in and just hooked it up to the same lines that were there I guess I have a old style expansion tank it mounts on the top on a dead end pipe
I was going to replace it but all the new ones mount on the bottom and not to mount in a dead end pipe
what should i do I just can’t get the air out
Thought a new tank would help? -
February 28, 2004 at 5:57 pm #214870jemy villanuevaGuest
i have a hot water heating system in my home with massive pipes in the basement which conects to smaller pipes going to radiators my ? is it expensive to remove system and replace with another heat system? because i have a spacious home but only 2 rooms up stairs out of three get warm to hot also downstairs is chilly while the 2 rooms are hot i have ajusted the flow 2 the hotter rooms but still cold downstairs is replacement of system my only option
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March 22, 2004 at 6:56 pm #221783coby yorekGuest
I need to remove some ceramic tile behind my hot water radiator – is it as simple as it looks? Turn of f the water valve and unscrew the bolts on each side and just remove? will this screw up the heating?? Will this cause problems when I put it back into place? please help! need instructions.
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March 22, 2004 at 7:00 pm #221786coby yorekGuest
I need to remove some ceramic tile behind my hot water radiator – is it as simple as it looks? Turn of f the water valve and unscrew the bolts on each side and just remove? will this screw up the heating?? Will this cause problems when I put it back into place? please help! need instructions.
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March 25, 2004 at 7:29 pm #222893DaveGuest
I have a smith boiler, and my pilot light goes out periodically. Any suggestios to what I should check? I installed a high wind cap, thinking it was a down draft, but still having problems. Help!!
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May 19, 2004 at 10:00 am #236437brianGuest
i have a leak and need to replace my hot water system. this is the one that interacts with the heat system. this is used with nat. gas
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