Tommy Mac Discussions › Forums › Fix-it Forum: Home Improvement & Do It Yourself Repair Forum › Driveway sealer problem
- This topic is empty.
July 21, 2001 at 5:35 pm #23375Chris MillerGuest
I just sealed my new driveway after 4 seasons. The problem I have is that the sealer seems to be of two differnt types. It was all in the same type containers but there is a definite difference in the look and texture of it. I used mid grade race-way compound from Home Depot and I am very unhappy with it. The biggest problem is the majority of the area looks like I applied aircraft non-skid on it. I used a brush/broom but the stuff was pretty thick and didn’t apply well. Any ideas on what to do?
July 21, 2001 at 9:44 pm #107318Jay J -ModeratorGuest
I’m sure you’ve learned the ‘hard way’ that it’s not good to mix brands/types of sealer. Whether it be accidental or ‘intentional’, the results are unpredictable (until the results are seen.)
I’ll guess that one brand is a Sand-based Filler and the other one isn’t. The purpose of the sand is for a non-skid ‘effect’. I happen to have it on my driveway which runs up 4′ over a distance of about 40′. It’s great because, when it rains or when after shoveling snow, you have some traction. W/O this type of Sealer, well, you’re likely to slip a WHOLE heck of a lot more often!
The Sand Filler needs to be stirred CONSTANTLY. (The Instructions on the bucket will tell you.) I use a broom handle for the job. Having followed the instructions for 7 buckets, I had no problem. I stirred a lot and did the job, beginning in the cool of the day and ending in the heat of it. (I did 72′ about 6 years ago, and haven’t had to do it since.) I, too, waited 4 seasons before I did it.
I guess all I can say is try to make do w/what you have. There are a few ideas I have about ‘fixing’ it but it will involve work. You could wait until the ‘bad section(s)’ come loose, then power-wash that area clean, and re-seal w/the ‘matching’ sealer. Or, if it doesn’t come loose over time, just go over it w/the matching sealer. No matter what you end up doing, it’s BEST to clean the area(s) in question w/a power washer to insure that the sealer will STICK to a clean surface. Dirt, grime, and the like will PREVENT new sealer from sticking. If you have more ?’s, you know where to find us.
My best to ya and hope this helps.
Jay J -Moderator
PS: I don’t mean to sound ‘heavy’. I’m writing for your benefit (even if you know), as well as the benefit of others that may read your Post …
July 28, 2001 at 3:31 pm #107474DonGuest
Not to pick on Home Depot’s brands in particular but you’ve experienced one of the many problems with “off the shelf” products for homeowner use. ALL these products are packaged in a form that is inferior to commercial grade asphalt sealers. Even if there is a commercial grade sealer with the same name. They often sit on shelves for months getting from manufacturer to warehouse to retailer to you which adds to the problems. The nationally recognized standards for asphalt sealers published by the ASMA (Asphalt Sealcoat Manufacturers Association)and the PTCT (Pavement Coatings Technology Center at the University of Nevada, Reno)require graded silica sand in all sealers for wear and traction. Commercial sealers used by professional contractors are sold in a more concentrated form and must be mixed and/or applied using specialized equipment. Good manufacturers test batches regularly to insure consistent quality. These standards must be sacrificed to some extent in all “bucket” materials to produce a product with a shelf life that is “ready to use” and can be stirred and applied by a homeowner. As for the number of coats, it’s like paint. Two thinner coats will perform better than one thick coat.
November 23, 2001 at 12:45 am #110436Mark CargillGuest
The reason you have the two different textures is quit simple. When they make sealcoat sometimes, the filling of the containers aren’t filled with the same batch of sealcoat. This tends to lead to thinner seal at the top of the batch and thicker seal at the bottom of the batch. This causes the inconsistency of the mixture. What I would do is if you really want to improve the look and performance of your driveway, is to
#1 Call around and see if you have a sealcoating plant around you somewhere? I am sure there is one around.
#2 Measure your driveway L X W (length times the width). This gives you how many square feet it is. Then divide that number by 500 this will tell you how approximately many gallons of sealcoat you will need. If it is any amount over 10 gallons than your best bet is to call the plant and see how much it is per gallon to buy from them. (Always cheaper than buying the store bought kind) And much better quality too. I recommend a Star Sealcoat dealer. http://www.starseal.com This is what we have been using for over 8 years. I think its the best in the business. We have tried them all and nothing compares to the quality, looks, and finish. But whatever you buy, try to buy it in bulk. We use 50 gallon drum barrels on small jobs. Star seal ranges from $1.55 to $2.00 a gallon. You do the math compared to the store bought Price Versus Quality. But anyway. Find out how much you need and go get it.
#3 NEVER broom it on. We squeegee it on. And or Spary it on. It gives it a nice smooth finish and definitely a much thicker and better coating. You can buy a squeegee 3-4 foot one at a sealcoat dealer or asphalt pavement shop. Make sure you clean the pavement well. Oil Seal Primer is recommended for oil spots. Then the best time to do it is in the spring after the temperature is at or above 60 Degrees. We live in Michigan so we are a 4 season state. We seal from the minute it gets to 60 to the time it gets down to 60 degrees. Fall is not really a good time. As the leaves and such blow onto the pavement and stick to the seal. Then people try to pull the leaves out and it leaves their imprint in it. NOT GOOD>. But when you squeegee it pour an amount you will be able to handle with the squeegee and just go back and forth with it. Wear shoes you want to ruin as they as you will be stepping in the seal as you pull it. Watch for small stones as they will leave puddles of seal.
To seal against concrete until you know how to handle the squeegee use a small paint brush and brush the edge of the concrete, housing or whatever. then squeegee the bigger part. Use allot of pressure when you go back and forth and overlap the part you just did. till you reach the end. Try not to leave any line’s you know what I mean if you use the squeegee. But in the end You will love the appearance and it will last about 2-3 years if you use a good seal and a squeegee.
October 8, 2002 at 8:31 am #120454custom driveway coGuest
try bying sealer(coal tar or asphalt emulsion) in commercial form from sealmaster neyra ind ext most all manufactures will sell to the public ask questions and mix and stir properly apply with a new wide broom sealer brush with long straight strokes
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.