painter21

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  • in reply to: staining texture 1-11 #300205
    painter21
    Participant

    It’s kind of rare for things to bleed through solid oil stains, so I’m assuming that your stain is a semi-transparent. If it is mildew, it will look more like black spotted areas. In this case, Clorox and powerwashing is the way to go for mildew. If the home was built in 1978, and it is more like a general darkening, it could be scorching from the sun. Sort of a sunburn. In this case, it might be best to revert to a solid stain, after cleaning it, to cover it. Good Luck!

    Learn to paint like a professional “The Tingle Way”. Visit us today at http://www.tinglepainting.com

    in reply to: Wall Paper #299438
    painter21
    Participant

    Wallpaper has two sides, the print side that you see, and the paper backing. I try to pull the print side off separatly. Once I’m down to the backing, I test an area to see if hot water alone will work. Make sure to get a spray bottle. If it does, great, I remove the rest and wipe down the walls thoroughly to remove the rest of the glue.

    Now this was the best case scenario. In some cases, you can’t separate the print side from the backing. There is a paper tiger tool that will perforate both layers so that your hot water can penetrate all the way through. Also in some cases, water won’t be enough. You may have to use DIF or another paper removal product. I’ve even used fabric softener.

    If your paper was hung incorrectly, you may need to get a steamer. You can buy these at your local home improvement store fairly inexpensively. Steamers are easy to use.

    You’ll just have to test a couple of areas to see what kind of a job your looking at. In all cases, be careful not to use excess water and be careful when scraping to minimize your wall repair.

    Once you’ve removed all of the wallpaper, if your walls clean up really well, your go to go. If you have glue that won’t come off or your not sure about your surface, it would be a good idea to put a coat of oil primer on your walls before painting. You can then use latex paint for your topcoat.

    Good Luck!

    Learn to paint like a professional “The Tingle Way”. Visit us today at http://www.tinglepainting.com

    in reply to: wallpaper sizing #298586
    painter21
    Participant

    You can use vinegar and water to remove the sizing or you can just prime over it with an oil based primer. Anytime we take down paper, we always prime with oil primer before we paint. It helps seal everything down. Good Luck!

    Learn to paint like a professional “The Tingle Way”. Visit us today at http://www.tinglepainting.com

    in reply to: painting over wallpaper #298547
    painter21
    Participant

    If the moisture wasn’t there before you painted, and you used a latex primer, it could be from the primer. Whenever we paint over wall paper, we perforate the walls with a perforating tool, paper tiger, and then we prime with oil primer. This helps seal the paper to the wall. Then you can coat the walls with latex paint. You may need to let it dry out thoroughly and then cut out the loose paper at the top and skim these areas. You shouldn’t try to put an oil product over your latex until it has cured out completely, usually about 30 days. Good Luck!

    Learn to paint like a professional “The Tingle Way”. Visit us today at http://www.tinglepainting.com

    in reply to: painting #297159
    painter21
    Participant

    When we have this problem, we shut the door to the room. If we are painting the inside of this room, we only paint what can be seen with the door shut. The other way to do this is, shut the door and stand on the opposite side, maybe in the hallway, and determine what all can be painted on the other side without showing in the hall.

    If the door is going to remain open most of the time, it might be best to paint 1/2 of the door jam.

    Hope this helps

    Learn to paint like a professional. Visit us today at http://www.tinglepainting.com

Viewing 5 posts - 16 through 20 (of 20 total)