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Paint cracks because the substrait under it is moving. Paint does allow a little movement but when there is more movement than the paint will allow, you see a crack in the paint. A window, door, doorwall or other opening in a solid wall is typically where you get the most movement and that’s where you see the crack. Peeling is typically caused by water being under the paint when it’s applied or getting under the paint.
There are latex based products that you can paint on the walls in a limited amount that allow more movement before the paint cracks. You probably do have a small leak in the side or roof of the house that is showing up in these cracks. It can be very difficult where a small water leak is involved to find a source. Ice damming on the roof might be the problem if you are suddenly seeing this with cold weather. Water can travel quite a bit one it gets to house framing before you see the evidence that water is there. At this point, I think that you might just want to investigate the high latex material. You can paint your regular paint over it. When the weather is better, you can check the outside of your place and caulk–or have the condo association people do it.
Henry in MI
Millicent, there were some excellent plans in Family Handyman Magazine about 4-5 years ago. There are other plans available but they are not real common as this is a pretty large and involved project. Part of this is that there are a lot of liability issues involved. If your child falls out of bed and is seriously hurt, the person who drew up the plans could be sued. For the same reason, you want to follow the product safety requirements when you build the bed. Rules like this are developed because people were hurt and you don’t want to see that happen to your child.
Henry in MI
From what you have said, I have no idea. If you had a picture, reference to magazine article or web site, maybe we could help more. He is some information that may be of some help.
To drill for dowel holes, I usually use a drill press ($40 at Harbor Freight and I’ve used mine for over 20 years). Set a piece of scrap wood on the table and use a Forsner bit to drill a partial depth hole and you can use either a Forsner or a spade bit to go all the way through. The scrap wood on the bottom protects the bit pilot and, if you keep everything from turning from the torque, helps prevent tear out. If you need a hole just part way thru the piece, you can either set a depth stop or hold your drill bit on the side of the wood and mark with a piece of tape on the bit shank how far down to go. The depth stops that come with the cheap drill presses are not worth a darn but for most things,you can use the tape.
To drill a through hole in a dowel, clamp a piece of 2×4 on the table to start. Drill through the 2×4 with a bit the size of the dowel. Remove that bit and insert a length of dowel into the drilled hole. Replace the bit with one the size of the hole you want to drill. Since you have not changed the hole center location and the drill press holds the bit in the same vertical plane, you should be able to drill into the center of the dowel.
To drill a cross hole in a dowel, start with a piece of scrap 2×4. At your table saw, set the blade at a 45 degree angle and a relatively shallow depth and remove a triangular piece at the middle of one face of the 2×4 and running in a lineal direction along one of the long faces. Take the 2×4 to your drill press and chuck a big bit into the chuck. Use the big bit to set the 2×4 so the vee groove is right under the chuck center. Clamp the 2×4 into this position. Remove the big bit and chuck the drill bit you will use for the hole in the chuck. Move the table up. You may have to recenter the drill to the center of the vee in the 2×4 but you will be pretty close since you will not need to reclamp. Lay the dowel in the vee notch and drill the hole.
There are other “dowel drilling rigs” for things like joining wide boards to make a table top or box side or top. Dowels were used for joining these before bisquits came along and I still use them for some things. The dowel drilling rig for this is about $40 and it’s worthwhile to get a good one.
Another FWIW is that I use my drill press more for sanding than for drilling. I keep a flat oak board bolted to the table with countersunk bolts. The board has a 2-1/4″ hole under the drill press chuck and I use a 2×2″ sanding drum on a mandrel for sanding. The end of the drum goes a little way into the hole in the board. This is cheap, easy and it works.
Henry in MI
to be sure what quality you are getting. More and more of the wholesalers around here are just not carrying the same brands that the home centers carry. When I call the guys at the wholesalers that I sold a lot of pipe to and ask what brand to buy at the best price, they send me to Lowes for Delta or Moen for faucets, as one instance. The wholesalers are doing more with the industrial/commercial market and things like with water heaters and black pipe that is actually round.
Henry in MI
Yes. I would.
I’m not sure what part of the country that you are in, and what your weather is or will be, but that’s what I would do.
I saw the post from Ig above. We are both in Michigan and it probably is too late for us to prime here unless we would really get a spell of nice weather. I thought that you were further south and may be able to get away with it. The place to go for the best answers in your area is a Sherwin-Williams store or a Benjamin Moore dealer. These tend to be where the best local professionals buy paint so you can get a feel for what the local professionals are doing in your area from them.
Henry in MI
If you are sanding, you can rent a drum type sander that will quickly remove the surface layer of wood. One other advantage to this is that the drum sander tends to level the floor. You do not have to remove the floor finish by stripping as the sander will do it.
There are orbital sanders on handles that are pretty good and not as aggressive as drum sanders. These do take less of a learning curve than a drum sander but still should not be that much work. These are available for rent, as are drum sanders, at home centers. Anything smaller, like a belt sander or finishing sander, would be a challenge for anyone unless they were just scuff sanding the current finish.
What are you using?
Engineered floors may or may not be capable of being refinished. They are plywood and the top layer may or may not have enough wood to handle refinishing. My comments above are for solid wood floors or for engineered floors that are made for refinishing. Engineered floors have finishes that are factory applied and much better than any finish that can be applied in a home setting. The need to refinish these is rare and you are usually as well off to just replace many engineered floors.
Henry in MI
Did you use BIX Hydro-Stripper? How long did you leave it on? Is all the finish off? This sounds a lot like you have mold growing under finish that is still on the floor. How have you tried to sand?
Henry in MI
I like Scotch-Brite abrasive pads for “sanding” between coats of poly. Most home centers carry this now. The ultra-fine grit (#7448) works well for this. If you have a lot of dust, bubbles and bumps, you might want to use the general purpose grit (#7447) but you have to take a lot more care to not sand too deeply into the finish.
Henry in MI
Ig, this site has had little in the way of advertising over many years. I probably posted here 3-4 years before the newer specialized board and the “for a fee” board came into existence. There are free boards available and they have been for years. It can cost next to nothing to set up and operate a board. The difference is that sponsors can have TV programs and TV advertising to show the web site address of their sponsored boards. It’s not really difficult to find people to post answers. It’s a lot more expensive to find people to come an ask questions.
Henry in MI
New or stripped wood is very succeptible to attack from mold and rot. Your climate will have some impact on this and you may have few problems if your climate is extremely cold and dry for most of the winter. Since most of us don’t live in the Antarctic, you will be a lot better off by applying at least a primer when temperatures allow.
Henry in MI
Why not start by contacting the namufacturer? They probably have a web site with a way to e-mail them.
Henry in MI
I think that your best bet would be not to do anything. Any solvent that will be strong enough to attack the glue will also attack painted metal and plastic. The plastic will flex and the glue will come off in a relatively short time. Glue on chrome plated metal would be a candidate for removal with acetone, Goof Off, Superglue remover or other product but you would have to be very careful not to get these solvents on chrome plated plastic, painted metal or similar materials.
If you really have to do something, and I do think that letting time and use would be the best course, but if you have to do something, run the car through a car wash a couple of times. The hot soapy water will find its way under the glue.
Henry in MI
When I had to replace the clear safety shields on my grinder, I just made new ones in the same size and shape from polycarbonate plastic. There are several kinds of clear plastic sheeting available and you do NOT want to use the cheaper variety sold for common window replacement. You do want polycarbonate and Lexan, made by GE, is one brand but there are others. This is the material, in appropriate thicknesses, that are used for things like security glass in banks and convenience stores and in railroad locomotive windows.
Your home improvement center should carry it but, if you can’t find it, most industrial plastics specialty stores will sell small pieces and give you some tips on fabrication. You can drill it OK but sawing it can be a challenge as it can melt back together. Scoring and snapping, like you do window glass but with a straight edge and something really sharp run over the line a half dozen times, is better than sawing in the thinner thicknesses.
Henry in MI
