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For residential, the inspectors do a calculation based on square footage, that limits how many outlets you can have on one breaker. Not a problem for my case, since it’s for one room.
Another issue is how long your daisy chains are for the outlets. I don’t like to see an outlet more than 5 away from the breaker in a daisy chain. What I like to do is run sheathed electrical cable from the breaker to a large outlet box, and from there branch off to several strings of outlets. Related to this, I’ve seen backwired (push-in wire type)outlets go bad, and this exponentially increases problems for outlets that are daisy chained a long way down the chain. I like the Cooper models with backwire clamps on the side terminals, and they’re about as fast to terminate. When you tighten the screw down, it clamps on the wire.
The track in front of the slider is there because the fixed panel can actually slide (a little bit) when unfastened. It’s not to catch water. I don’t think they HAVE to make them that way, but they do.
You can either fasten a ramp piece to the track or to the floor. You can glue to either. The floating floor floats so that as it contracts or expands, it can act as one solid piece. If you fasten the ramp to the floor, it’ll move a little as the temperature and humidity change, and you may get a little bit of a gap. I’d guess typically 1/8″ of movement. If you fasten to the track, it’s a bit of a challenge to get it to stick. If it were me, I’d cut a wedge out of hardwood, shape it on my big sander, and use construction adhesive. And I’d probably fasten it to the floor, but could probably make it work fastened to the track instead.
Should be enough to have air flow from each soffit vent. Don’t need an opening to the soffit other than at each vent.
It comes down to: why did the laminate floor fail?
1) If the problem is moisture from below (doesn’t sound likely, given how you checked this out), it’ll repeat and cause the old flooring to buckle again
2) If the problem is moisture from above, the new floor should protect against that. The couple of laminate systems I’ve seen fail (Pergo, plus a plywood-type laminate from Scandanavia) were from moisture from above.
I think you’re OK to flatten out (sand the tops of) the existing laminate and put flooring over it. For the failed systems I saw, though, we ripped out the old floor and put in ceramic tile. Got tired of moisture causing problems.
Thiggy’s answer is correct.
For commercial/industrial wiring, inspectors will flag it as a problem if there are more than 10 outlets on a 15A breaker. For residential, there’s no maximum number of outlets.
I’m in the middle of wiring my own home, and I think I’m putting 20 outlets in my bedroom. Since all bedroom circuits now have to be on AFCI breakers, and because I want to be able to plug every dang thing I want to no matter how the bedroom is arranged, I’m putting in TONS of outlets. All on one breaker.
Most carpet can be re-stretched, with a ‘kicker’. The only time I’ve been unable to get this to work was when the carpet had gotten wet, and mold/mildew weakened the carpet to the point that stretching it caused it to tear.
When you stretch it, be sure to push it down again on the tack strips (around the perimeter of the room, under the carpet). Walk around the perimeter, and put your weight on the carpet and push it onto the tacks.
You can rent a kicker for about $13/day, or buy one (Harbor Freight sells a $20 and a $30 model). I made my first one out of 20d nails at an angle thru a 2×4 & a 4×4 at the knee end, but it was pathetic.
If it’s been sitting a while, probably just needs oiling. Remove the cap on the rear top of the arm, and apply oil to the back end.
Seems there are door specialists that will build you a new post. Incidentally, the post is called an ‘astragal’.
That reference shows only 1 of several possible ways that 3 way switches and lights are hooked up. It shows both switches wired after the light. It also works to have the light between the switches or after the switches.
See this reference for all 3 cases:http://www.the-home-improvement-web.com/information/how-to/three-way-switch.htm
