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Depending on how big it is, you can try a damp towel. Warm damp towel. lay it on there and check on it every hour or so. The dampness makes wood expand, it might draw the dent out. If its a serious dent then your best bet would be to replace that section. You have to cut it out and insert new wood. The installer (if he is good) should be able to make it look like its not a patch job.
It seems you have a rare haunted chair.
you will need to purchase a hardwood stretcher =)
or……. some of the spindles are still holding the chair together but are on the way out and it seems like the ones in the middle are short now. A bottle of carpenters glue, a few pipe clamps, and in some cases a carpenter, can fix this problem in no time! If you can take the chair apart then do so. Sand the ends of the spindles so that there is no old glue or sealers, do the same with the holes. make sure everything is clean and the spindles fit in the sockets and the chair looks and stands how its supposed to. If the spindles cant come out dont force them out the last thing you need is a broken one.
Apply glue to the holes and dont hold back with the glue, the more the merrier.
Take some pipe clamps and clamp it all together nice and snug, make sure the pipe clamps are padded unless you dont mind imprints from the clamps on your chair.
Let the glue dry overnight and sand again and brush some paint or whatever it has on it where the bare wood is.
In a perfect world that is how it would work. Try spraying it with WD40 or some type of oil and leaving it there for a while, by while I mean hours……… like 12 of them. Maybe that will help loosen things up.
The only thing you can do is change the doors. These doors must be exposed to the elements. If they get directly rained on or snow builds up against them there is no way to stop them from rusting. Usually painting an exterior door once every 2 or 3 years is the best way to prevent this from happening so fast. Also awnings help too.
There is always a way to fix anything.
How deep into your pocket you want to go to fix the problem is another story.
It is a defect.
you can rip out from under and add more wood or add some steel “I” beams.
There is no quick fix to this.
cut out a square bigger than the hole around the hole. If you can make it big enough to where it reaches 2 studs do it. if not you will need to screw supports onto your new square hole do this by taking some wood and placing it in the hole and screwing it from the outside so you have some place to set the new square drywall that will fit in the hole. The idea is so that the patch has a place to rest and a place to get attached to. Screw everything down and spackle away.
you cant fix this problem, it will always be cracked.
if its coming away from the wall I am guessing you mean the moulding around the door. You can nail it back and caulk it and paint it. That might help. Your best bet is to just replace it.
The color does not really matter. What matters is what wires have signal. I would guess that the Green lead wire and the green/white stripe are the ones with the signal.
You need a tester.
In this case a telephone can work as a tester.
Plug in a phone to the jack and start connecting until you have a dial tone.
Keep sanding, filling in the mud, letting it dry and sanding until desired smoothness.
Its not hard, its just time consuming.
By metal bathtub I am guessing you mean cast-iron.
These tubs can be a problem because they tip the scales at 350 pounds and they are solid cast iron.
here is how you remove a stubborn cast iron bathtub that you plan on not using again.
Make sure the drain is disconnected before you start.
First wear as much protective gear as possible. Next take a sledge hammer and go to town on the tub. Cast iron does not bend when you hit it. It shatters. It will need a few good whacks in the same spot for it to break so dont give up.
Thats how I remove them.
