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The flashing will be attached to the roof and runs under the shingles. If you have access to the bottom of the roof, you may be able to back-out any nails holding the flashing, then from the roof use a thin pry-bar / nail remover to extract the fasteners. If you can, the assembly should slide down the roof. Otherwise, you will have to carefully remove rows of shingles that cover the top of the flashing. It can be done by aiming the prybar for the nails and using a hammer to engage it fully before prying up. Very old shingles or a lot of extra mastic could be a problem.
If you have damaged shingles, about all you can do is match as closely as possible.
The fan and any roof flashing and hood will be separate. Just focus on the fan and you will certainly find bolts that attach the frame to the roof or chase. The flashing / cap is separate and can be left undisturbed with the new fan installed below.
This business of troubleshooting blind via the internet may mean I missed something unique. If you have pictures of the install, please post them on photobucket or similar site, and post the link here. We’re looking forward to the BV forums joining the 21st century and including image hosting.
You can repair the split, but I would use a good quality wood glue rather than gorilla glue. My experience with the Gorilla stuff is that, while it has a tenacious bond, it foams on application and tends to not form the clean “invisible” line of a good carpenter glue. Its wood, and its a forgiving material.
The finish is going to need to be re-applied, and chances are you will need to remove the old finish, sand to level, and stress the table-top to match the stress of your fall. In other words, you may need to hit it with some chain or other antiquing method to match the gravel damage.
Sorry this happened to you, and hope you are well.
Solid color stain is opaque and will hide paint colors under it, but is thin enough to show texture and sometimes grain patterns. They are intended for generally exterior application, but will work fine indoors. The color palettes tend to be in natural and earth-tone shades. Truth is, you could use any indoor paint in a color you like, and it will retain the texture of the wood underneath giving a more natural appearance. Rough sawn wood does not show grain as much as texture anyway.
The easy part is testing for lead. There are swab test kits at most hardware stores. Sandblasting sounds like the best way. You will never be able to sand that deeply, and the rough wood will not strip chemically. Solid stain might be an option. Its basically latex paint, but you can go for a natural color you like. Another option may be to cover the painted beams with a veneer or boards of stained wood.
Any idea if the beams are decorative or structural?
First, I think you need to look higher for where water is entering the wall. It is much more likely you have a failed window flashing, gutter or other point of entry, than water backed up high enough off the ground to enter your house.
Take a look at this drawing to visualize the construction of your wall and the ideal grade: http://ppc.ucsc.edu/standards/details/07000/07.6-21.pdf/
This is a picture of weep screed and a description noting it is required by code: http://www.nilesbldg.com/weepscreed.html
And finally here is an article describing the purpose of the weep screed as part of a wall system. http://www.metallathinfo.com/newsletter1203.htm
In answer to your question whether to remove the foam and tar, the article says:
“Note: it is important not to block this opening. Some contractors finish the wall with trowlable or roll on acrylic or Elastomeric finishes. It is important that these finish materials do not fill the shrinkage crack formed at the juncture of the stucco and the edge of the foundation weep screed. While the holes do provide some drainage after stucco shrinkage that is not their main function. They are primarily bonding holes. There are not enough of them and no efficient way to clean them out to perform satisfactorily as weep holes. We must rely on the stucco shrinkage along the entire angular surface of the screed.”
You really need to address the drainage issue in your garden in a way that water is directed away from the house. The drain holes are there to allow water to escape rather than being retained in the siding or migrating into the interior of the wall. The consequences of plugging the weep screed can lead to all kinds of health, safety, and durability problems. The weep screed is designed to let water out to prevent damage. If water is getting in, fix the drainage.
We are led to assume water intrusion in your home results from ponded water from the garden backing up against the house. It is more likely your water problem comes from above, and you just made it worse You need to trace teh problem to its source…infiltration through the stucco, a leaking gutter, roof, siding,or window flashing. By sealing the drain designed at the base of the siding where it meets the foundation, you could force water to accumulate behind the stucco, and flow into the house, or cause hidden deterioration, rot or mold. Fix the drainage
Did I mention fix the drainage?
You can clean it with a pressure washer and household siding cleaner, or just use a car washing tool. There are a bunch of inexpensive tools that attach to a hose and have a brush and often can mix soap or cleaner.
The paint will continue to chalk, and that is a normal self-cleaning mechanism. Remember you can paint aluminum siding very easily. Best results are airless spray applied latex, but hand-painting will work. Just be careful about setting ladders against the siding.
As long as the drywall is structurally sound and free of mold, use a stain blocking primer and then finish it as you want. Stain blocking primers are available from most quality paint manufacturers.
Rather than reinvent the wheel, take a look at this site and video. If you still have specific questions, check back and ask. Skim coating is something within the grasp of most DIY homeowners, but it does take some practice. Careful application of thin coats of drywall compound or setting plaster where you need more fill, will minimize your sanding work.
These old refrigerators were a cool idea. Kind of like a refrigerated wall cabinet. Sounds like the compressor is out if it does not run at all. You will need to find someone capable of repairing and recharging the compressor, and the refrigerant may not be available any more. No one will stock or sell parts for this appliance because the refrigerant is now banned. A good repair mechanic can probably get it running, but if efficiency is important to you, a modern replacement may be a better idea.
These have been discussed on the forums before. http://discussions.tommmymac.us/wwwboard/messages/87524.html
Before using an older crib be sure to check the CPSC site for recalls. For example: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml01/01087.html
Also read this safety warning: http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/PRHTML95/95161.html
CPSC Warns Consumers That Used Cribs Can Be Deadly
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) today is releasing a report warning consumers that used cribs are responsible for about 50 infant deaths a year. CPSC released these findings this morning at a press conference with representatives of industry and children’s safety organizations.
“Our message is simple but vital,” CPSC chairman Ann Brown said. “The best investment you can make for your baby is a crib that meets all of CPSC’s standards.”
According to CPSC’s report, cribs account for more deaths of infants than any other nursery item. About three-fourths of the victims were under one year of age with virtually all victims under age two. Most of the incidents occurred in the child’s home rather than in daycare or at other locations.
In most cases, infants strangled or suffocated when they became trapped in the crib side or end that had separated from the rest of the crib because of loose or missing hardware. Some infants became trapped between an undersized mattress and the side of the crib, in gaps created by missing or improperly attached mattress supports, or in areas between broken or improperly spaced slats. Others strangled when clothing or items around their neck became entangled on the crib corner posts or crib hardware.
The majority of cribs involved in these incidents were previously owned or used. Parents and caregivers reported obtaining these used cribs as “hand-me-downs” gifts from friends and relatives or by purchasing them at yard sales, flea markets, and used furniture stores.
Beginning in 1973, CPSC and industry have worked together setting standards for safer cribs that addressed side height, slat spacing, mattress fit, corner posts, and cutouts in crib end panels. Since these standards have been in place, infant deaths in cribs have declined from an estimated 150 to 200 a year to about 50.
“Government and industry are working together to make sure that the cribs you buy are safe. We’re asking parents to do their part by making sure that the crib they use meets these standards,” said Chairman Brown. “A crib is the one place where you should be able to safely leave your baby unattended. And since babies spend more time in cribs than any other furniture item, a crib must be safe.”
Representatives of industry and consumers, including The Danny Foundation, the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association, the American Academy of Pediatrics, the Consumer Federation of America, the Maternal and Child Health Bureau of the Department of Health and Human Services, and the National Safe Kids Campaign, joined CPSC at the press conference. These groups are also promoting safe cribs with a national print campaign to reach millions of people that will be distributed by pediatricians, retailers, consumer groups and the public health community. Many of the groups involved in this program are sponsoring local community efforts to roundup and destroy unsafe used cribs. Used crib roundups are planned for San Francisco, Denver, Rochester, New York, and in Washington on September 16 at 10 a.m. in the Bethesda-Chevy Chase High School parking lot.
Participating retailers, such as Toys “R” US, will offer discounts on new cribs purchased during Baby Safety Month in September. Several crib manufacturers, such as Cosco, Simmons Juvenile Products, and Delta Enterprises, will donate new cribs to low-income families in the area.
CPSC recommends that cribs meet the following safety guidelines:
* No missing, loose, broken, or improperly-installed screws, brackets, or other loose hardware on the crib or the mattress support.
* No more than 2 3/8 inches between crib slats so a baby’s body cannot fit through the slats. If a soda can fits easily through the slats on a crib, the spaces between the slats are too wide.
* A firm snug-fitting mattress so a baby cannot get trapped between the mattress and the side of the crib.
* No corner posts over 1/16 of an inch above the end panels (unless they are over 16 inches high for a canopy) so baby cannot catch clothing and strangle.
* No cutout areas on the headboard or foot board so a baby’s head cannot get trapped.
* A mattress support that does not easily pull apart from the corner posts so a baby cannot get trapped between the mattress and crib.
* No cracked or peeling paint to prevent lead poisoning.
* No splinters or rough edges.
The siding ends are allowed to float in the J-channel to allow for expansion and contraction. No caulk needed where siding meets the channel. Leave 1/4″ clearance at the ends of panels where they butt into J-channels or corner posts and at the ends of corner posts where they butt up against the eaves. Leave 3/8″ if you’re installing when the temperature is below freezing.
There are a number of products that are held together with a urea resin that could release ammonia odors when wet like particleboard, or fiberglass insulation. Ammonium sulfate is often used in cellulose insulation as a fungicide and could release ammonia odors if wet. There are a number of possibilities. You may need to open up a wall. Look for signs of discoloration or staining to narrow down your search.
I think when you programmed the two remotes you may have changed the program code so the keypad didn’t work. The keypad is simply a remote (radio signal) that is activated by pressing the correct combination. Don’t know which model opener you have, but for most you press and hold the “smart” learning button on the opener until the light blinks, then operate the remote. In this case, use the keypad while in the learning mode. On some units, to add a remote you press and hold the light button on the indoor controller. Check back with a model number, or just follow instructions for adding a remote.