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    • #40405
      james frank
      Guest

      how do i make it to make less noise under a bedroom

    • #208369
      Stuart R.
      Guest

      Dear James,

      Greetings!

      First, i have been in the door industry for 22+ yrs.

      I can give you a few pointers but it`s difficult to pinpoint without seeing/hearing it.

      If it is a Genie screw drive [long threaded screw running down the rail] Shut door, dis-connect the emergency release, with transmitter in hand start up motor and squeeze a white lithium grease such as Lubriplate down the length of the screw/rail until it quiets itself. [A word of caution: If these motors are run continuous for too long, they will overheat and thermo-couple or shut down until it cools off and resets itself, about 10 to 15 min.]re-connect the emergency release and run door. It will last awhile, the chattering on these is the hard steel screw has opened up or worn the bore inside the aluminum rail and would be less expensive to just replace the entire opener. They really howl when the temperature drops in winter.

      If this is a chain drive operator? With the door shut, look at the chain. If it is sagging, it will need to be adjusted. Most models have the adjustment at the carriage assembly, the Stanley motors have a single screw located on top of the motor head directly behind the tube, older Genie chain drives are located at the front idler and are also a single screw. Adjust the chain just so it is just even or centerline with the rail, over tension will cause popping and clicking. These adjustments should be made with the door shut on the floor, then unplugging the motor, then adjusting.

      Tri-Flo is a great light lubricant! Get the front/rear idler sprocket bushings. And a light dose on the chain. Lubricate everything that moves once a year and it doesn`t need to be saturated, a little goes along way, it`s not a high speed application.

      Don`t use “GREASE” on doors or openers, it only causes problems!! It`s a teriffic dust and gook collector and hardens with time, if something is grinding or running that rough, inspect the rollers and bearings, anything that turns, chances are the bearings are shot. Parts are available at the hardware store, WD-40 can dissolve that mean axle grease mess and quiet things down alot.

      Tighten all fasteners, hinge nuts etc.. Then squirt all the door hinge pivot points and barrel seams where the roller stem goes through [sometimes you have to rotate the barrel with pliers to get access to that fine seam], squirt the rollers bearings, you can get in there with the little red wand that they supply with the lubricant and lastly lay a little lubricant up in the horizontal track, the rollers will pick this up and also spray the spring[s] if they are of the torsion type [they probably need a liberal dose, the coils bind when they wind and unwind, you`ll be surprised how much all this will help to quiet your door[s] down.

      Another common cause is noisy light covers, vibration. The best fix is get some adhesive backed weather stripping and affix it so that the edge of the light covers “saddle” into it. It will keep its “teeth” from chattering.

      Use 60watt bulbs or less, melted or burned light covers?? from any old bulb warps covers so they don`t fit properly and could start a fire, iv`e seen them burned pretty crisp from 100 watters.

      Get the electrician out if you need more ceiling lighting?

      Chaimberlain/Liftmaster sells a rubber studded insulator kit that mounts between the motorhead backhang and motorhead, this helps soften vibration transmitted through the ceiling/floor.

      You can get these also at the hardware store in the fastener dept. It is a solid rubber bushing/insulator with a 5/16 threaded stud sticking out of each side. Just replace the bolts that secure your motorhead to the ceiling backhangs or angles with these.

      My professional preference on motors is “Liftmaster” brand. You cant`t go wrong!!

      Their “Formula I” belt drive is whisper quiet when installed properly. A little spendy but well worth the money. I have a Model LM 1280 chaindrive in my private residence, It`s the stuff! Proper light lubrication on all moving parts periodically is everything to making the mechanical world last!

      Hope some of this helped?

      Regards,

      Stuart

    • #208402
      tom
      Guest

      I put mine up with “L” brackets on the opener and then fastened plumbers tape (steel tape) to the joists.

      works like a champ and is totally silent.

    • #208451
      dp
      Guest

      grease the tracks, chain, screw drive

      oil the hinges and pullys, rollers

      tight up al the hardware all over the doors and tracks, it could have worked loose over the years, like ninges, roller brackets and whatnot

      and the advice above posts is good advice

      dp

    • #254151
      Unregistered-brettd2234
      Guest

      Acoustics that sells an application for silencing garage door opener motors. There website is http://www.professionalacousticsco.com

      They specialize in noise control and it looks like it would work great. It makes it so there aren’t any hard connections between the garage door opener and structure of the home

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