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    • #24899

      My wife and I are painting our home and she picked out a faux finish she likes by BEHR paint in the Home Depot. Is anyone familiar with this brand (BEHR) and is it any good.

    • #112003
      Jay J -Moderator

      Hi Bob,

      When it comes to ‘opinions’ on paint, this Forum has LOTs of ‘personal opinions’, mine included.

      I prefer to pay a few more $$$ and buy my paint from a local Paint Retailer. In fact, almost all of the Mfgrs. that make their paint also make the paint for the Home Centers, K-Mart, Wallmart, and the like, BUT to the Big-Box-Store’s specifications. Usually, with the price that a can sells for, you have to figure you get what you pay for. If the Specs. were the same in those stores as well as in the local Paint Retailer’s Store, then it wouldn’t matter where you bought it, eh? If you were to take a look in the back of the vans of, say …, 6 Pro Painters, I’d bet you’d see Big-Box-Paints in 1 van. The others wouldn’t use it because, well …, their livelyhood depends on good paint as well as a ‘nice job’.

      The overwhelming majority of ‘folks’ that have visited us here have NOT had great success with those paints, faux included. See what the local Paint Retailer has for you and go from there. PLUS, use a high-quality PRIMER/SEALER before you use your topcoat especially if you’re going from dark to light, or if the surface is being painted for the first time, or if you’re changing from oil to latex. (Again, the Paint Retailer can help you.)

      Others will most likely follow behind me, either for or against using Big-Box-Paints. My best to ya and hope this helps.

      Jay J -Moderator

      PS: God Bless America!

    • #112005

      out there than BEHR.

      My personal experience with behr was not a pleasurable one. I am a painter by trade. I have always taken pride in my work and paint homes like I would want mine painted.

      I have always strived to only paint with three brands: Sherwin, Kelly Moore, and Ben Moore. This gives the customer a choice and they all group with my skills to create a finish that you would want.

      These three brands are found only in their respecive speciality paint store.

      Now, with behr: again, I am a painter that is supposed to know how to properly paint. Behr does leave corner shadows. Behr does not wash up and clean up well at all. Behr is a paint that I would rather refuse the paint job than to paint with that product and expect renumeration. Behr does not partner with my skills to give the finish that I achieve. Matter of fact, it will loose business for me.

      Behr has as many lawsuits agains it as any company that I know. Anyone that advertises that a paint of that quality will last for lifetime is just asking for that amount of litigation. Paint, even the best is only good for max of seven years and less under stringent environments.

      Now, here is this to you. your time is very valuable. to paint your home, you are sacrificing good time that you could be with your family or doing something of quality.

      If you spend the time painting with your hard earned time and you spend a small amount of money on paint product, then the last thing you want to do is to repaint.

      Repaint and re buy paint is a real profit drain and something that no one likes to do. So, my suggestion is to take the behr back get a quality paint and with your time, you will have a paint job that you will be very happy with.

      I am ready for all the flak that will arise from these comments, but its near and dear to me to use good paint with good earned time to yeild good results.

      Behr will not do this for you.

    • #112018

      Jay and Steve summed it up very well.

      Go to a paint store. You can acheive the faux look with quality paints.

      BTW – use quality tools. The brush and roller sleeve is no place to cut corners.

    • #112020

      Great advise from you all… I am printing your responses to show the wife. I have a local B & M Dealer and will spend the extra money in his store rather than the home centers… Thanks again!!!!

    • #112441

      First I thought maybe we had something on
      our walls, or maybe it was the mold retardant
      from when we first moved in.

      In our bathroom, our walls look like elephant skin now, and you can see the stud outlines since that part doesn’t have cracks.

      Seems like it contracted too much when it dried, and now it’s starting to crack and peel.

      Glad to read (but sorry to read), that other are having problems as well.


    • #114268
      Caleb Clark

      BEHR is a terrible product i thought hat i would be haooy with my finished product but it looks terrible and it costa lot more than other paint that is more efficient BEHR sucks!!!

    • #114269
      Caleb Clark

      BEHR is a terrible product i thought that i would be happy with my finished product but it looks terrible and it costs lot more than other paint that is more efficient BEHR sucks!!!

    • #114461
      Richard Serra

      Does anyone have experience with this paint process? It sounds complicated, time consuming and ultimately very expensive since you trowel on the final coats.

      Any alternatives or advice is appreciated.

      Thank you.

    • #122937

      Behr paint is the best paint out there.

      All you people, and yes even you so called professional painters, need to do your prep work.

      Also, don’t buy the 0.50 cent brushs, get the $15.00+ brush.

      Don’t badmouth the best product on the market, just do it right and you won’t have any problems.

      I read on here that a lady used Behr stain and claimed it washed off with the hose. Well ANY stain will do that if you don’t prep the wood.

      There is a coating on the wood and you have to use a cleaner. I used Behr stains on my deck and I used there cleaner and 15min Quick Fix then stained my deck. I’ve used my pressure washer on it many times and NEVER had a problem.

      Just read the instructions and do it right and it will work for you.

    • #123377

      I have used Behr paint in several rooms in my home and have gotten GREAT coverage with it! It has done such a nice job everywhere else that I just painted my baby nursery with it. We did murals on every wall and it looks fantastic and I have pictures to prove it! I would not paint with anything else!

    • #124883

      Behr paint is the best! I decorated everything with their beautiful selection of colors.

    • #125280
      Caleb Clark

      Well guys, a friend was using Behr paint, and I told her that Behr isn’t that good of a paint.

      Well, was I ever wrong, it looks amazing on the wall and she didn’t even really know what she was doing.

      Sorry to Behr for saying that it sucks, cuz I was wrong.

      It coated really nicely.

    • #132472

      we have used many behr products from outside fence stain to interior finishes.we have done 2 rooms in faux finish.our experience was it is an execellent interior paint and easy to work with.our rooms have been done for about 21/2 yrs.however the exterior sidewalk paint and deck stain seem to wear quikly,but you must appreciate they are high traffic areas.

    • #148967
      Susan C.

      I used a faux finish in my 1/2 bath with behr paint 3 years ago – and ragged off finish – and I love the finish and I love the paint. Would recommend it….. easy to work with, dries well, holds up well!

    • #149379

      Useing Behr sandwash as directed.On 4th coat 13ft ceilings, and have very bad overlap lines in columns on most of the wall!!! Anyone know what to do?

    • #152497

      Behr paint is all I’ve used in my house. I love it. I am just starting a faux paint project with behr paint. Even if the color I find isn’t a behr color, I have it scanned and mixed with a behr paint. I always use a satin finish on the walls and semi-gloss on the wood work.

    • #158218

      Hi All,

      Has anyone tried the new Behr clear waterproofing product that has the silicon added which they rate 4-6 years ?

      Very curious to try it on our sunny deck. Put on a clear sealer two years ago when it was built but it has not lasted.

      Was going to power wash it this week and try the behr cleaner to get it ready. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Steve.

    • #183059

      Been one of those teachers who paints in the summer for over 25 years, just tried to use behr in my own home and will NEVER use it again. It does NOT cover, takes far longer than its “4 hours” to dry. Use Benjamin Moore( like I did), or even Kyanize, Glidden, Pittsburg, California, Sherwin Williams ,Walmart, or whatever a 5 year old makes up for you. Whatever you use it will be better! Did 3 coats, it would not cover. Let a full day pass between coats in an air conditioned environment and it would not adhere, it just sagged.Did not use too much, if anything I’m a “dry painter” Put one coat of a similar Benjamin Moore color and is was fine – just one coat. Use Behr and according to my experience you are just wasting time and money

    • #185039
      Jesse A

      Okay, so I have read through all of these comments and have a few of my own. I have been remodeling my bathroom for a few months now and it finally came time to prime and paint the walls that I put up myself. I put two coats of Kills on and let it dry for a few weeks.

      So Saturday comes time to start painting. We go out and buy Behr’s interior latex paint for baths and kitchens. I whiped down all the walls befrore painting and bought the specified rollers to use.

      The first coat went on very badly. Very little cover and it dired uneven. On top of that I had a few places that seemed to run.

      I thought… heck that must have been my fault. I fix what drips I could and the next day move on to a second coat.

      The second coat made me feel a little better at first, but it still appeared that I was going to have to put on three coats to cover the walls completely. However, it appeared that I was starting to get some runs and odd places on the wall that the paint was not sticking. So I went over the whole room one more time with the roller, not putting any new paint on the roller. I figured I this would even out the paint and avoid any dripps.

      So I set up some fans and went out to dinner.

      I return home a few hours later to find that the paint had started sliding, or running down the walls. ( I have painted houses professionaly as a teen and have painted my whole home and have never seen anything like this.) It looks like I took buckets of paint and threw it onto the walls. The finish actually looks like something someone (with a sick mind, becuase I painted in red)would try to do. However, I have a bunch of dripps all over my walls.

      So for all you people who stand by Behr no matter what….. what would cause something like this?

      Are you going to tell me that Killz is not the best primer to use? What else could I have done wrong? It wasn’t below freezing or even near it when I was painting. I cleaned the walls as instructed.

      Well, all I know is that I will be buying my paint from another source from now on. The people a Behr were real helpfull too. When I called to complain I was hung up on twice. Yeah that is professional.

      So now I have to go and sand down my walls. Clean that up and then re-prime and re-paint (with a different brand). It has put me a week behind schedual now and I will not be able to get my tile in this weekend.

      Thanx alot Behr. You truely do SUCK!!!

    • #187352


      Behr Sandwash Directions Fix

      Behr Sandwash Paint Tech Support

      If you’ve applied your second coat of BEHR SANDWASH and you’re horrified at the results, your not alone.

      I am doing a conference room at the USAF Arctic Survival School as a DIY project. The color used is Open Prairie. After my 3rd coat of sandwash, I still could not get rid of the streaking, lap marks, and multi tone patches. I had already used way more paint than the directions called for in a room this size. I used good prep; washing and priming the walls. I used a Ralph Lauren paint roller because it was made for this type of paint (don’t use it). One thing I noticed was that the paint appeared to be pressure sensitive. If you press the roller harder in one area more than another, you get two different tones. I will tell you how to fix this.

      I called the tech support line using the 1-800 number on the can. The support guy was extremely helpful, and I’ll pass along what he told me, which worked..The trick is, DO NOT FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN.

      Here’s what you have to do. 1.Do not use a pan for your roller. The sand settles in the pan and you’ll get sand clumps coming off onto your wall. Instead, get a 5 gal bucket and pour 1 gallon of sandwash into the bucket. Use an application grid (which is a small metal washboard device that hangs inside the bucket). 2.Add 8 ounces of flowtrol (or any brand) latex paint conditioner to the one gallon (don’t skip!). Mix using an electric drill stir. 3.Use a 3/4 nap LAMBSWOOL paint roller. They’re about 10 bucks, but this is key to success. 4. Get a sea sponge and quality paint brush ready for use. Have a couple of plastic shopping bags ready to put your wet rollers in in case you need to switch to a sponge. Better yet, work with a second person as a team. Don’t attempt this without a good masking tape job, your not going to cut in a pretty bead with your 6″ brush. If it’s not too hard to do, you’ll be better off pulling the baseboards off. You get better results.

      Application. First, The name of the game is go thick. You’re going to lay this stuff on just short of sagging. Second, and this is important, once you have gone over an area and moved on, don’t go back to try and fix it no matter how tempted you are. When you stand back to see what it looks like and you see a spot that has a lap mark, don’t be tempted to try and redo it. What will happen is you will get a two-tone job. Just make sure there is complete coverage as you move down the wall.

      Before you start, soak the roller in water first and fling the water out of it till it is just damp. Dip the roller in the paint and don’t be afraid to get a lot on it. Just don’t dunk it or it will drip out of the roller sides. Get a second person to go ahead of you with a brush laying a thick line of paint across the top near the ceiling, and along the bottom if the baseboards are still there. While that is still wet, start rolling 1 column at a time getting more paint if your roller starts drying out (the first couple of columns will until your roller is saturated). Go thick. Ram the roller up against the ceiling (this is where the good masking job comes in) and down into the baseboards. Use a sponge loaded with sandwash only on areas where your roller won’t fit.

      Corners. Get someone to slap a thick line into the corners before you get there with the roller. Roll the roller into the corner as far as you can UNLESS the next wall is a finished wall. Use masking tape in the corner of a dry finished wall to avoid getting new paint on it… it will become two-toned if you don’t.

      As it begins to dry, you will still be horrified. You’re going to see lap marks, but this will settle down of you followed directions. The finished results are worth the prep. This is not a very forgiving paint and you can’t just slap it up like your doing a large apartment complex.

      Let me repeat the one thing that will screw up a good sandwash job. DO NOT try to go back and repair a spot you did 5 minutes ago. And do not take your roller and go lightly (gently) over an area just to even the texture. Going gently will put a layer of lighter colored paint on, and you will have a light spot. You cannot just fix a spot, you have to re apply the whole wall. You will be able to tell after about 4-5 hours (in low humidity) if your application will dry even, even though is will not be perfect at that time. That will take several days (because is is on so thick).

      Now, before I scare everyone away from using this, I have to say the results are dramatic. I now have museum quality walls, which is what I was shooting for. We’re going to put up dozens of framed photos honoring Gen Curtis LeMay, the founder of the USAF Survival Schools. Don’t get too picky about the texture difference betweem where you used a brush and a roller along the ceiling. I’m telling you not one person noticed that looked at it…only I could tell.

      The tech support guy was also very helpful in getting us a refund on what I thought was fair. I used eleven gallons of paint on a 21×11 room while “learning” to apply this stuff. I’ll negotiate what I think is fair next week.

      I hope this helps. Hopefully you read this before you started. If you didn’t, I hope this helps you fix what you started. You’ll be happy you put the work into it.



      Follow up:

      It doesn’t matter if your walls look like the stairwell of public housing building with the current coat you have on. If you follow the directions above, you will recover! You already have a lot of money tied up…don’t stop just yet!


    • #189323

      Please help: Have a navy blue master bedroom. Have cleaned the walls w/TS, primed w/2 coats and have just finished applying 2nd coat of Behr interior semi-gloss – color is coffee white from Ultra line.


      1. Seems color is uneven (using roller suggested)?? Any suggestions?

      2. What is best way to pull painters tape off=cut w/exacto knife?

      3. Paint dries inordinately quickly – although Behr’s site suggest making a “W” on wall and then folling up and then back – seems like paint is already drying? Any suggestions?

      3. Any help/tips from folks who have painted w/Behr a DARK room to light.

      Any and all suggestions much appreciated.


    • #225586

      After applying, burnishing, and varnishing I needed to touch up a couple spots. Sanded lightly with 220 grit and replastered and burnished. Now when turning on water wherever I touched up gets noticiably darker than original coat. What do I do? How do you fix venetian plaster and can it be fixed after varnishing?

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