THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE LAMINATE CAN EASILY COME LOOSE FROM THE COUNTER TOP, ESPECIALLY IF WATER MANAGES TO GET ‘DOWN THERE’. (WHO KNOWS WHAT MOUNT-SURFACE THE LAMINATE IS GLUED TO.) IF THIS HAPPENS, YOUR TILES WILL SEPARATE AND THE GROUT WILL COME LOOSE. GENERALLY, A LAMINATE COUNTERTOP IS NOT RIGID ENOUGH TO INSTALL TILE ON.
I WOULD RECOMMEND YOU TAKE OUT THE SINK AND CUT CEMENT BACKER-BOARD DOWN TO FIT AND SCREW INTO PLACE. NOW YOU CAN TILE. TYPICALLY, THERE ARE MASTICS THAT CLAIM TO WORK BUT THEY USUALLY DON’T. I GUESS YOU CAN TACK DOWN SOME WIRE MESH, AND TILE OVER THAT, BUT I THINK YOU RUN THE RISK OF THE TILES COMING LOOSE.
IN SHORT, DO IT THE RIGHT WAY IF YOU WANT IT TO LAST. IF YOU CAN’T AFFORD TO DO IT THE RIGHT WAY, SAVE SOME MORE $$$ UNTIL YOU CAN, OR UNTIL YOU CAN HIRE A PRO TO COME IN AND DO IT. THERE ARE VIDEOS AND BOOKS ON HOW TO DO THIS. MAYBE HOME DEPOT OR LOWE’S HAVE CLASSES. THEY’RE FREE, AND WORTH CHECKING INTO.
MY BEST TO YA AND HOPE THIS HELPS.
PS: DOES READING THIS IN ‘CAPITAL LETTERS’ GIVE YOU A HEADACHE? I GOT ONE FROM WRITING IT. I’M ASSUMING YOU NEED TO READ THE CAPITAL LETTERS EITHER BECAUSE IT’S EASIER FOR YOU TO READ OR BECAUSE OF A ‘SIGHT PROBLEM’ … (WHERE’S THE TYLENOL?!) IF YOU CAN’T BEAT THEM, JOIN THEM.
f you can take the sink out, I would recommend cutting a piece of cement backerboard to fit and screw it in place and then tile over it.
There are mastics that claim they will work, but typically I’ve found they don’t. Your other alternative is to tack down some wire mesh,
apply a scratch coat of mortar and they tile on top of that.